Ressence has gently tweaked its flagship model to create the Type 5 L. Already unconventional in its original form, the new Type 5 is similar in style and function to the original but with a fully luminous dial that maximises legibility in the dark. As is tradition for the brand’s higher-end offerings, the Type 5 L features an oil-filled case that enhances visibility of the dial by eliminating a common problem underwater: refraction.

Initial thoughts

Dive watches rarely deviate from orthodoxy, exemplified by the Rolex Submariner. But then there is Ressence, which is unorthodox across all its watches, but in a sensible and thoughtful manner.

The Type 5 L underwater

The Type 5 L meets the ISO 6425 standard for a dive watch, but looks nothing like a typical dive watch. Even though the planetary sub-dials take some getting used to, legibility is good once you’re familiar with the dial layout. And the addition of lume enhances visibility, making this a logical evolution of the model.

As is often the case with most of the brand’s top-end offerings, the only downside is the price of CHF34,500. Granted, the Type 5 L is unique in construction and form, and also executed to a high level of quality – but it is still pricey.

The entire dial of the timepiece is luminous for legibility in dim light

Oil-filled dial

In terms of dimensions and materials, the Type 5 L is identical to its less luminous counterpart. The case is titanium, measuring 46 mm in diameter and 15.5 mm high.

The Type 5 L retains the signature Ressence feature of with an oil-filled dial that serves two purposes. One is to lubricate the planetary time display module known as Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS), and the other is to enhance legibility – refraction causes the dial to appear flat against the underside of the crystal.

The oil-filled dial eliminates refraction that distorts the time display, one of the most prevalent issues in a dive watches

Because of the oil with the case, the essentially segments it into two sealed chambers, the upper chamber containing the oil-filled time display module and the lower chamber for the ETA 2824-2 base movement. The two chambers are entirely separate physically, with the base movement driving a magnet that in turn drives the time display module.

By rotating the caseback, the timepiece can be put to the “setup” mode.

Another trademark Ressence feature: there is no crown with the time set by rotating the case back, which can also be locked for waterproofing in a system known as the Ressence Compression Lock System (RCLS). Thanks to that, the Type 5 L is rated to 100 m of water resistance. And it also features a 60-minute unidirectional bezel for measuring elapsed dive times.

Key facts and price

Ressence Type 5 L

Diameter: 46 mm
Height: 15.5 mm
Material: Titanium
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: ETA 2824-2 with in-house time display module
Functions: Hours, minutes, runner 90″, and oil temperature indicator
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per second (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 36 hours

Strap: Grey fabric strap with leather lining, and additional blue rubber strap

Limited edition: No
Availability: Available at Ressence boutiques and retailers starting June 2024
Price: CHF34,500

For more, visit ressencewatches.com