The Breguet Type XX takes off with two new models

The path of the pilot’s chronograph is a well-trod one, with many brands possessing a rich history of keeping time in the sky. Breguet’s own aviation pedigree dates back to the early 1950s, but up until now, the brand has been focused on more classical collections. However, there has been a consistent and increasingly strident cadre of enthusiasts asking for Breguet to make a return to flight. Finally, those calls have been answered, with two takes on the Breguet Type XX, one inspired by military models and the other more civilian-leaning.

Before we look at the latest offerings, here is a refresher on the historic origins of Breguet’s aviation watches. Breguet, along with other brands, responded to the French Air Ministry’s request for a pilot’s chronograph, which had to meet strict criteria, including a black dial with luminous hands and markers, a rotating bezel, a flyback chronograph and a high-grade movement, resistant to changes in both shock and pressure.

In 1954 the French Air Force ordered 1100 Type 20 watches, which were all delivered by 1959. A further 500 watches were delivered to the French Navy, and this model was eventually offered in civilian variant. Breguet’s records indicate 2000 of this original design were sold to non-military markets by 1970. In 1971 the design evolved, and was sold, in limited numbers, up until 1986. Thankfully, the pilot returned to Breguet’s books in 1995, and in 2004 we were treated to the Type XI, with the Type XXII following in 2010. Now though, we go back to where it all began with two versions inspired by the original designs, the civilian-oriented Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2067 and the military-inspired Breguet Type 20 Chronographe 2057.

Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2067

First up, this 42mm steel watch has plenty of historically accurate hallmarks, in addition to some modern conveniences. The fluted, bi-directional bezel with an inset luminous triangle at 12 is a core part of the Type XX’s design identity, and the ivory-coloured luminous material (also present on the hands and dial), is a clear nod to the past. The 15-minute totaliser at the three o’clock position is oversized in the name of legibility. This means the register cuts of the 2 and 4 numerals, which, when combined with the date placed at 4:30 and the unconventional placing of the ‘Swiss Made’ text next to the date, creates a lack of cohesion in the dial that (while practical), detracts from the aesthetics.

Breguet Type 20 Chronographe 2057

The piece with the more direct military inspiration shares many of the same base elements as the new Type XX but with less old-world flair. The luminous paint here is a minty green, the handset is straight rather than dagger, and there are only two registers. The oversized crown, a staple of the pilot’s genre, is onion-shaped here, and the bezel lacks the 12-hour scale., Though the DNA dates back to the same era, this feels like a much more contemporary design, especially on the fabric NATO-style strap (both watches come with calf and fabric options)

A Contemporary Calibre

The internal mechanism of this watch is — in contrast with the style of the exterior — brand new. Calibre 728 is the result of four years of work for Breuget and features in both watches (though the ref. 2057 features the Calibre 7281, which lacks the 12-hour totaliser. Beating at an accurate 5 Hz and offering 60 hours of power reserve, this flyback chronograph is visible, along with its black open-rotor, through the clear caseback.

The return to the Type XX is a welcome change of pace for Breguet, which has previously excelled in dressier arenas, and this pilot, with its rich history and solid new movement, looks set to be the start of a new adventure in the skies for this storied pilot.

Tech Specs

Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2067

Calibre: 728
Functions: Flyback chronograph, date, small seconds, 15-minute and 12-hour totalizers
Case: Steel, 42 x 14.1mm, water-resistant to 100m
Dial: Black
Strap: Two interchangeable straps, in calfskin and NATO fabric
Price: USD 18,000

Breguet Type 20 Chronographe 2057

Calibre: 7281
Functions: Flyback chronograph, date, small seconds, 30-minute totalizer
Case: Steel, 42 x 14.1mm, water-resistant to 100m
Dial: Black
Strap: Two interchangeable straps, in calfskin and NATO fabric
Price: USD 18,000