When Hintaro Hattori set up shop in Tokyo’s Ginza at the age of 21, he would eventually change the watchmaking landscape forever. The business, which initially focused on importing and wholesaling Swiss pieces, would go on to manufacture Japan’s first wristwatch, the Laurel, in 1913. It would also eventually be known as Seiko. Not one to waste an anniversary, Seiko is commemorating 110 years since the Laurel with a flurry of releases up and down the lineup. From Presage to Prospex, here is an overview of the new watches.
Seiko Presage
Bearing the closest resemblance to the original Laurel, the SPB401 bears the trademark red twelve o’clock numeral and two subdials for the date and power reserve. Its enamel dial comes from the work of the venerable Mitsuru Yokosawa and his team. It will be limited to 1,500 pieces with a retail price of $1,250.
The SPB413 features an angular case not too unlike the King Seiko line and showcases a “hemp leaf” pattern on the dial. A red mark along the rehaut at twelve is its nod to the Laurel. It’s the most modern of the new releases but perhaps is also one of the most wearable. It is limited to 2,000 pieces with a retail price of $1,050.
The least limited of the new Presage releases (3,500 pieces) is the SSK015, a new variation on the existing SSK GMT watches. It pays homage to the Laurel with its four blue hands and red triangle at twelve and will set you back $625.
Seiko Prospex
Sure to be a fan favorite, the SPB409 Alpinist GMT’s blue hands contrast against a sunburst silver dial. The red mark on the compass ring indicates North and is a special touch for the limited edition (3,000 pieces). It’s priced at $1,300.
The Speedtimer solar chronograph, reference, SFJ009, is a thoroughly modern watch with vintage touches. Capable of measuring elapsed time to a hundredth of a second, it references the Laurel with its bright red hands on the subdials. It is limited to 3,500 pieces with a retail price of $1,050.
Seiko 5 Sports
The Seiko 5 SRPK41 features an attractive and simple beige dial with new red 24 hour scale. Like the other special edition watches, it has blue hands. It will be priced at $425 and is limited to 6,000 pieces.
Seiko Astron
The highest-tech offering in the anniversary drop, the titanium SSJ019 bears the name of Seiko’s (and the world’s) first quartz-powered watch, Astron. It is powered by the caliber 3X62, which is capable of automatically adjusting the time via GPS. In a view of how far Seiko (and watchmaking) has come, it harkens back to Seiko’s first watch with a single red “60” at the 12 o’clock position. The retail price is $1,900.
Regardless of how you feel about watch anniversaries and special editions, it is no question that the Laurel paved the way for Seiko to become what it is today. Seiko’s president, Akio Naito famously lamented in a 2021 interview Seiko’s efforts to be “everything to everybody,” but this approach has also allowed Seiko to become a beloved name among collectors of all kinds. These anniversary watches pay respect in subtle ways and stand well on their own merits.
Full specifications and details on all the new 110th Anniversary SKUs can be found at Seikowatches.com. The lineup of new watches will be available at Seiko boutiques and retail stores starting in October 2023.