Launched just last year, Raymond Weil’s “sector” dial is getting new livery with the Millesime Automatic Small Seconds Denim Blue. Not a vintage reissue per se but a modern take on a vintage-inspired design, the Millesime has a “sector” or “scientific” dial segmented into sections, subtly stepped on the periphery and frosted in the centre for a two-tone effect. The case is topped with a box-shaped sapphire crystal and narrow lugs for subtle retro charm.

Initial thoughts

Family-run Raymond Weil is a brand that might be familiar to watch enthusiasts but not top of mind – that’s because the brand had its heyday in the 1980s and 1990s when it was a major seller of affordable Swiss watches. Since then it has gradually fallen behind the competition with mostly unimaginative products; The New York Times describes the brand as a “mainstay of shopping malls”.

With last year’s launch of the Millesime, a watch geared towards enthusiasts, the brand is trying to revive its offerings and reputation. It quickly found some success: the Millesime Small Seconds with a silver dial won the Challenge Prize (for watches retailing for less than CHF3,000) at last year’s  Grand Prix de l’Horlogerie de Genève.

Near-perfect proportions at 39.5 mm in diameter and just over 10 mm high

In the hand, it’s obvious the Millesime is much, much better than most recent Raymond Weil creations. Even though the design isn’t exactly original, it shows attention was paid to the details, particularly with the textures on the dial and proportions. All in all, the Millesime combines pleasing design and honest quality.

Priced at US$1,995, the Millesime Automatic Small Seconds is a decent value proposition, though not as compelling as the offerings from its rivals with greater economies of scale, most notably Longines with its Master Small Seconds that has a higher spec movement and more elaborate dial for not much more. At the same time, “micro” brands can offer similar watches for less due to their direct-to-consumer model. This reflects a wider challenge for brands in Raymond Weil’s segment that are sandwiched between huge and tiny rivals.

A stepped, two-tone dial

Featuring a “sector” layout with crosshairs, the stepped dial is frosted in the centre. The discreet hour markers, as well as the dauphine hands, are filled with Super-Luminova. This Millesime model features a small seconds register unnecessarily labelled “Automatic”.

Compact in size, the case has a bezel that’s brushed on top with mirror-polished bevelling on its edges.  The lugs are drilled for easy strap changes if one wants to swap out the stock navy calfskin leather strap.

The stepped dial is frosted in the centre

The watch is equipped with RW4251, which is derived from the Sellita SW200/SW260, in turn based on the architecture of the ETA 2824. It’s visible through the sapphire case back, but has minimal decoration, which is expected given the price point.

The RW4251 visible through the sapphire back

Key facts and price

Raymond Weil Millesime Automatic Small Seconds Denim Blue
Ref. 2930-STC-50011

Diameter: 39.5 mm
Height: 10.25 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. RW4251
Functions: Hours, minutes, and small seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: Unavailable
Power reserve: 41 hours

Strap: Navy calf-skin leather strap

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at Raymond Weil boutiques and retailers 
Price: US$1,995

For more, visit raymond-weil.com