As this year is coming to a close, it becomes apparent that a leitmotif of 2024 were artisanal dials ranging from hand-engraved, enamelled or even silk-inlaid. Louis Vuitton now takes its turn with the Escale Platinum Guilloché and Grand Feu Enamel, a simple, three-hand watch endowed with a complex and impressive dial made by hand.

Initial thoughts

Perhaps reflecting Louis Vuitton’s emphasis on haute horlogerie and independent watchmaking, the new Escale feels more like something from an independent maker, rather than a timepiece made by a luxury giant. This kind of artisan-oriented creation reiterates Louis Vuitton’s focus on horological craft, which is also the motivation behind the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives.

The deep blue sector-style dial feels organic thanks to the radial guilloché under translucent enamel. Beyond the artisanal nature of the dial, the design is thoughtful, with its proportions giving the face a classical composition.

The brushed chapter ring with milled dots for markers evokes the minute tracks found in 19th century Breguet pocket watches. The classical styling is combined with Louis Vuitton’s own design cues like the faux rivets on the case band), which makes for a surprisingly pleasant combination.  

A dial crafted by four artisans

The complexity of the dial stems from different finishing techniques being combined to produce a seemingly simple design with a mesmerising effect. Each dial is crafted by four artisans, each a specialist in a different craft. 

The dial blank start out as a white gold disc, which is milled to form a raised lip that serves as a border for the enamel. The milled disc then pass through the hands of the guillocheur, who engraves the blank with a deep, wavy motif with a traditional rose engine.

An enameller then takes over, painting the central sector with powdered coloured glass mixed with water and oil. The process is especially difficult since the mixture needs to be just right in order to ensure the layer is translucent. The technique of enamelling over guilloche is also known as flinque.

At the same time, the enameller applies a layer of counter-enamel to the reverse of the dial plate, which is not visible except to the watchmaker assembling the watch. The technique of counter-enamelling is used to preserve the dial plate’s geometry and flatness during the firing process.

As the enamel melts and binds to the soft gold plate, it can cause the metal surface to slightly contract, warping the plate. Applying a layer on the reverse assures the stress on the metal is evenly distributed on the front and back surfaces.

The dial plate then undergoes multiple firings in an oven at temperatures of over 800° C. This melts the enamel paint onto the dial plate, creating grand feu enamel and a blue-tinted translucent layer over the engine-turned dial.

At this point the dial is all but finished, with only the chapter ring and applied indices remaining. This is where things deviate a little from tradition.

The four baton indices at the quarters extend over the metal lip and onto the enamelled surface. This is a rarity in watchmaking as riveted hour indices on a fired enamel dial are extremely challenging to pull off.

Each marker needs to be anchored to the enamel in some manner, but this runs counter to the fragile, glass-like nature of enamel, which makes it impossible to drill conventional holes to to secure the indices. The solution devised by Louis Vuitton to employ a laser to cut three holes per marker, allowing the feet of each baton index  to be perfectly secured to the dial. 

The hands are simple and made of polished 18k white gold, with the exception of the seconds hand, which is in titanium with the goal of reducing its inertia — or so argue Louis Vuitton’s engineers. Personally I find the choice a bit curious, since the impact of a thin, well poised seconds hand on a movement’s performance is close to negligible, regardless of the material.

A fitting movement

Behind the dial lies the LFT023, a micro-rotor movement created by specialist Le Circle des Horlogers in partnership with Louis Vuitton La Fabrique du Temps (LFT). It’s a 4 Hz movement with 50 hours of power reserve. The LFT023 is also tested and certified as a chronometer by the Geneva Observatory — an uncommon feature even amongst movements made in Geneva.

While the caliber is not particularly sophisticated (apart from the micro-rotor winding system), the finishing is well done and has some appealing, unique touches.

The bridges have a granular, sand-blasted finish, with raised and polished borders. The movement is impressively monochromatic, with clear jewels and rhodium-plated going train. The only contrasting element is the engraved, 22k gold micro rotor and relief gilt lettering (naturally presented in the angular Louis Vuitton typeface). All in all, the LFT023 doesn’t look much like a traditional movement, but has an undeniable chic quality.

The new Escale employs the longstanding case of the model. Here it is 39 mm and platinum, with a brushed case middle  that features rivet-like embellishments for the polished lugs, which are meant to evoke the brass corners of Louis Vuitton’s famous trunks.

Key specs and price

Louis Vuitton Escale Platinum Guilloché and Grand Feu Enamel Dial
Ref. W3Pt21

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 8.97mm
Material: Platinum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: LFT023
Features: Hours, minutes, and seconds
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Leather with pin buckle

Limited edition: 50 pieces 
Availability: At Louis Vuitton boutiques
Price: €75,000 excluding taxes

For more, visit Louisvuitton.com.