Among the many Hodinkee collaborative limited editions released over the years, the TAG Heuer releases have consistently been acclaimed. The “Skipper” Carrera has become something of a legendary watch in the niche world of limited edition collaborations, and the Carrera “Dato” released a few years ago was similarly praised and struck a very different register aesthetically. Hodinkee and TAG clearly have a close relationship, and the latest result of that partnership has just been revealed. Available today, the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Seafarer x Hodinkee limited edition feels like a natural evolution of the of watches that came before it.
The point of reference here is the Abercrombie & Fitch Seafarer, a watch produced by Heuer for Abercrombie in the days before they became an apparel staple at your local mall, and were known primarily as an enthusiast’s sporting goods retailer. The Seafarer, like the Skipper and Dato, has become an extremely collectible vintage reference for Heuer aficionados. They were produced in relatively small numbers from the 1950s through the early 1970s, and for a long time these watches were a kind of inside-baseball grail for collectors. These days more people are aware of them, and the Seafarer’s aesthetic has directly and indirectly influenced new watches from brands both large and small. This is the first time, however, that TAG has returned to the classic Seafarer with real intention, so it’s a big moment for old-school Heuer fans.
Unsurprisingly, the Hodinkee limited edition seen here takes advantage of the incredibly popular Carrera “Glassbox” platform, here with a 42mm stainless steel case and a dramatic domed sapphire crystal that conjures the feeling of vintage acrylic crystals but maintaining a robust quality that is critical for modern everyday wear. The dial design stays true to the colorway of the original Seafarer, with a deep black dial and accents in multiple shades of blue within the subdials at 3:00 and 9:00, intended to track the tide and time a regatta.
Small details in the design of the watch pay tribute to vintage references while also clearly identifying this edition as a modern TAG Heuer. The date, for example, has been removed for a cleaner dial that will please enthusiasts and collectors. The “Seafarer” wordmark is still there, but has been moved to the 6:00 subdial. Perhaps most notably, and perhaps most controversially, the watch displays the modern “TAG Heuer” logo as opposed to the vintage “Heuer” wordmark, which the brand has used on occasion with vintage inspired references.
The watch runs on the TAG Heuer TH20-13 in-house caliber, which appears to be a new movement and is capable of tracking high and low tide. Unfortunately, at press time, we haven’t been provided with information on precisely how this caliber operates, but we’ll update this space when we have more detail. We’ve been told that it has an 80 hour power reserve. Other specs follow previous Glassbox releases, including a 100 meter water resistance rating.
The retail price of the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Seafarer x Hodinkee limited edition is $7,950. It’s a limited run of 968 pieces, of which 125 will be sold through Hodinkee’s shop. The remainder will be available through TAG Heuer boutiques and authorized retailers. TAG Heuer
