Vacheron Constantin’s flagship launch for the year is the Les Cabinotiers “The Berkley” Grand Complication, but it a 1 kg pocket watch with 63 complications and an eight-figure price tag commissioned by a billionaire insurance entrepreneur. For more ordinary well-off persons, the brand’s halo product is the Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine.

Based on a model launched in pink gold in 2020, the Tourbillon Chronograph Collection Excellence Platine is a large but elegant watch executed to a high level, with both fine movement decoration and the usual all-platinum CEP treatment.

A periodic offering from Vacheron Constantin (VC) since 2006, the Collection Excellence Platine (CEP) is a series of limited editions that are variations of regular production models enhanced with the liberal use of platinum throughout the watch. Typically that means a platinum case and clasp, which are ordinary, but also an unusual sandblasted platinum dial and also a strap stitched with platinum-and-silk thread.

Initial thoughts

I’ve always liked the CEP series because it’s a subtle twist on the standard version, with the differences only really apparent to those in the know. At the same time, because the CEP treatment is simple, it often works better on some models than others.

With the CEP line now almost 20 years old, there are about a dozen CEP editions to demonstrate that point. The platinum treatment arguably works best with more complicated watches like the Traditionelle Split-Seconds Chronograph (which is perhaps the best CEP edition ever), or at least those with fancier aesthetics like the American 1921.

Not surprisingly, it works well on the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph, which has two complications plus a tourbillon. The dial is clean and almost monochromatic but the sub-dials and tourbillon add detail.

Like the standard version of the watch, this is fairly large at 42.5 mm wide and almost 12 mm high. The platinum case adds to the sense of size. It’s doesn’t feel too big, however, and both the weight and proportions work well. And it helps that the chronograph is single button, which eliminates pushers that would add to the perceived size.

Fortunately, the cal. 3200 inside is fairly large, so the registers and tourbillon on the dial are positioned proportionately to the overall diameter.

The movement is classical in style and decoration, so it’s worth admiring through the display back. While the movement finishing is excellent, it is identical to that in the regular production version. VC has never varied the movement finishing for CEP models, but that would be a welcome bonus, especially since the premium for CEP editions are substantial.

CEP

The Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph has the typical CEP look – primarily silver and shades of grey with dark blue accents. Though it might sound plain, it’s a good combination that is both appealing and distinct from the standard model.

Though the dial is clearly asymmetrical, it has good visual balance with the large logo at nine o’clock serving as a counterweight to the minute counter at three.

Like prior CEP models, the platinum dial has a fine blasted finish that catches the light in varied ways, resulting in a slightly different tone of grey or silver depending on the perspective.

To go with the platinum dial, the hour indices, two-tone hands (frosted and polished), and Maltese cross at nine are in 18k white gold. The blue accents come courtesy of the hands for the chronograph and power reserve that are in blued steel.

A discreet “Pt950” hallmark is printed in between four and five

With its muted colours, the focal point of the dial is the tourbillon at 12 o’clock. It’s presented in the usual VC style, with a Maltese cross carriage secured by a full bridge. While the tourbillon assembly gives the wide dial depth, the gilded balance wheel and gears are useful in adding colour to the detail.

One of the four screws for the carriage is blued, allowing it to function as a seconds pointer

Also rendered in platinum, the case has the same measurements as the standard model, 42.5 mm by 11.7 mm. It’s slim relative to the diameter, but still a large watch. The lugs are also long, adding to the large feel. That said, the case doesn’t feel clunky and wears reasonably well for a watch of this size.

The Traditionelle case design also incorporates various details that make it interesting, including a stepped bezel, fluted case back rim, Maltese cross-inspired lugs, and a relief Maltese cross on the pusher.

The cal. 3200

One of several movements launched with the Harmony collection in 2016 to mark the 260th anniversary of the brand, the cal. 3200 is a wide, slim movement with a diameter of 32.8 mm and thickness of 6.7 mm – dimensions that make it a good fit for the case. The thinness of the movement is notable, given its complications.

The cal. 3200 is traditional in its approach to the chronograph, which has a lateral coupling and column wheel. Chronograph enthusiasts will certainly appreciate the old-school layout.

A few VC details can be found in the movement, beyond the logo on the chronograph bridge. These include the Maltese cross on the column wheel and a gear with spokes forming a Maltese cross.

Like most VC mechanical movements, the cal. 3200 bears the Poinçon de Genève, a hallmark of both decorative and functional quality. The finishing certainly lives up to expectations, right done to the smallest details, including chamfered edges on the spokes of smaller gears.

As illustrated in our recent visit to the VC manufacture, some of the finishing is done by hand-operated machines and some entirely by hand, which is typical of establishment haute horlogerie brands that produce watches at scale. As a result, the decoration is as good as that of VC’s peers Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet.

But to echo an earlier point fine as it is, the decoration could have been tweaked slightly for a CEP edition, so as to set it apart from the regular production movement.

Key facts and price

Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Tourbillon Chronograph “Collection Excellence Platine”
Ref. 5100T/000P-H041

Diameter: 42.5 mm
Height: 11.7 mm
Material: Platinum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 3200
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds on tourbillon cage, tourbillon, monopusher chronograph and power reserve indicator
Winding: Hand-wind
Frequency: 18,000 beats per hour (2.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 65 hours

Strap: Alligator with platinum folding clasp

Limited edition: 50 pieces
Availability: Only from Vacheron Constantin boutiques
Price: In the region of US$330,000 before taxes

For more, visit Vacheronconstantin.com