Having unveiled an all-new, top-of-the-line manual-wind 9SA4 movement earlier this year, Grand Seiko has now installed the new calibre in a pair of vintage remakes, the Heritage Collection 45GS Re-creation SLGW004 and SLGW005.

A limited edition in either steel or 18k yellow gold, the 45GS Re-creation is one of Grand Seiko’s few vintage reissues with the latest-generation calibre that runs at 36,000 beats per hour and also features Grand Seiko’s proprietary Dual Impulse Escapement.

Initial thoughts

This is Grand Seiko’s first remake of the 45GS, but if the new pair look familiar, that’s because Grand Seiko launched a 44GS remake in 2013. Though the 44GS and 45GS are different models launched just a year apart in the late 1960s, they were different models. The 45GS was an upgrade over the 44GS in terms of the movement, though it retained similar styling.

In the same manner, the modern-day remakes are most notable for having different movements. Amongst Grand Seiko’s many remakes, the 45GS stands out for the 9SA4 inside. It’s a large, slim, and sophisticated calibre that’s a substantial improvement over the manual-wind movements found in past remakes.

Because of the movement, the 45GS remakes are amongst the more expensive manual-wind Grand Seiko models at US$9,700 in stainless steel and US$30,000 in yellow gold. Moreover, the two priced comparably to the SLGW002 and SLGW003, which are modern designs but powered by the same calibre.

While not as affordable as other Grand Seiko models, the 45GS remake in steel offers good value considering the movement. The gold version, however, is expensive in absolute and relative terms.

Historical Revival

Modelled on the 45GS of 1968, the pair are faithful to the vintage original in style. The case retains the design of the vintage model, but is slightly larger at 38.8 mm in diameter, though it is slim at 10.4 mm high. The zaratsu-polished mirrored surfaces that are characteristic of Grand Seiko cases are particularly prominent on the 45GS case due to its wide, flat flanks.

Available in yellow gold or stainless steel, the 45GS features a double-signed dial bearing both “Seiko” and “GS”, a feature that was eliminated since Grand Seiko was spun off as an independent brand in 2017. The yellow-gold variation features a light cream dial, while the stainless steel boasts a white opaline dial.

The dial is identical to that on the original, right down to the Daini Seikosha lightning bolt logo just above six o’clock. It was employed to distinguish watches made by Daini Seikosha from those made by Suwa Seikosha, both factories making Seiko watches but rivals within the wider Seiko-Hattori group of companies. Notably, the very first Grand Seiko model made by Daini Seikosha was the 44GS of 1967, the immediate processor for the 45GS.

The 45GS has a display back to show off the 9SA4 movement. Although the 45GS is a faithful vintage remake, it has an additional feature absent on the original: a power reserve indicator located on the barrel bridge visible through the back.

Conceived as a high-end chronometer calibre, the 9SA4 has Grand Seiko’s own Dual Impulse Escapement and a high frequency of 36,000 beats per hour, along with twin barrels, which deliver a long power reserve of 80 hours. It is also decorated more elaborately than past Grand Seiko movements, giving it an aesthetic closer to comparable Swiss movements, though it still retains typically Japanese touches, like a bird-shaped winding click.

The winding click is shaped like a bird and performs a pecking motion when the movement is wound

Key facts and price

Grand Seiko Heritage Collection Re-Creation of the 45GS Limited Edition
Ref. SLGW004 (yellow gold)
Ref. SLGW005 (stainless steel)

Diameter: 38.8 mm
Height: 10.4 mm
Material: Stainless steel or yellow gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: Cal. 9SA4 
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds and power reserve indicator
Winding: Manual-wind
Frequency: 36,000 beats per hour (5 Hz)
Power reserve: 80 hours

Strap: Crocodile strap

Limited edition: 200 pieces for SLGW004 and 1,200 pieces for SLGW005
Availability: At Grand Seiko boutiques and retailers starting November 2024
Price: US$9,700 for SLGW004 and US$30,000 for SLGW005

For more, visit grand-seiko.com