One of the first brands to invert a movement and showcase it on the dial, Glashütte Original just released the PanoLunarInverse, a sibling of the PanoLunarTourbillon and PanoMaticInverse.
Like the earlier models, the PanoLunarInverse has key parts of the movement on the dial, including the balance wheel, escapement, and three-quarter plate that’s finished with with pyramid guilloche. In addition, it features the brand’s oversized Panorama date at two o’clock and a large moon phase display.
Initial thoughts
Older Pano models tended to be conservative in style. The PanoLunarInverse, on the other hand, is modern in colour and decoration, setting it apart from its Pano siblings. The inverted construction is made more interesting with the pyramid guilloche, while the moon phase adds a bit of romance to the technical appearance of the dial.
Some models in Glashütte Original’s Pano collection bring to mind the asymmetrical dial layout of another German brand (which is partly why Glashütte Original has never escaped the shadows of its peers), but the PanoLunarInverse feels original because of the combination of colour, decoration, and complication.
Priced at US$42,600, the PanoLunarInverse is one of the pricier watches in the Pano collection, but it is reasonably priced considering the platinum case and movement decoration. This is typical of Glashütte Original, which sits in the accessible high horology segment alongside brands like Jaeger-LeCoultre.
Inverse German watchmaking
The PanoInverseLunar retains the usual case of the Pano collection with a stepped bezel and bevelled lugs. It’s in platinum and measures 42 mm in diameter and 12.46 mm in thickness.
The inverted movement on the front, however, is different from the usual Pano offerings. It has a monochromatic finish in shades of grey, with both the three-quarter plate and double balance cocks decorated in pyramid engine turning. Though the look is more modern, it still retains the trademark elements of the brand’s movements, including blued screws and double swan’s neck regulators.
The time is indicated on black sub-dials that also incorporate the moon phase display. The moon phase comprises an aventurine glass disc with a solid gold moon that’s been engraved to mimic the actual lunar surface.
The view from the back is more conventional, with the hand-finished cal. 91-04 visible. It has 45 hours of power reserve and beats at 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz).
The bridges feature the same pyramid-like guilloche found on the dial and also boasts an open-worked rotor adorned with a moon medallion echoing the lunar inlay on the moon phase.
Key facts and price
Glashütte Original PanoLunarInverse
Ref. 1-91-04-01-03-62 (with leather strap)
Ref. 1-91-04-01-03-64 (with synthetic strap)
Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 12.46 mm
Material: Platinum
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m
Movement: Cal. 91-04
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, Panorama date, and moon phase
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 45 hours
Strap: Grey nubuck Louisiana Alligator or blue synthetic fabric
Limited edition: 200 pieces
Availability: Now at Glashütte Original boutiques and retailers
Price: US$42,600
For more, visit glashuette-original.com.