Intrepid winemakers are the real protagonists of the Etna wine scene. In the second part of my Etna series, I pick four vintners whom I know and value: Benanti, I Vigneri, Frank Cornelissen and Tenuta di Fessina. Four pioneers of a land full of wonders. Here are their philosophies and marvellous wines
Welcome to the second and concluding part of my series dedicated to the Etna wine region. In the first article, I focused on Etna’s legends, history, grape varieties, DOC appellations and terroir. Now it’s time to delve into some of the most interesting winemakers based around the Etna Mountain. I will offer you a glimpse of what this wine region has to offer.
I visited the Etna district in 2017. There I witnessed the puffing and smoking of Europe’s biggest active volcano. And, of course, tasted some excellent wines. I was immediately fascinated by the wines of this district. Perhaps even more intriguing was learning about the resourceful and heroic winemakers stubborn enough to cultivate this dramatic land.
In this article, I share my top four favourite Etna winemakers. My line-up is by no means comprehensive or definitive. As always happens in Wine and Other Stories, my choice represents a personal preference of taste and reflects the producers with whom I am most familiar. Also, please note that I have not received any compensation or perk of any kind for my words. Without further ado, my favourite Etna winemakers and their creations are below!
Benanti – History
In Sicily, the Benanti family traces its history back to 1734. However, it is since the beginning of the 20th century that the Benanti family has been making wines on the slopes of the volcano.
In the late 1980s, Giuseppe Benanti began commercial viticulture around Etna Mountain (alas, he died just a few weeks prior to writing this post). One of the pioneers of Mount Etna, Giuseppe Benanti was a pharmaceutical entrepreneur who decided to turn his family’s enduring passion for wine into an ambitious new venture.
Giuseppe Benanti was one of the first professionals to put Etna on the wine world map. According to the local rumours, he was outraged by drinking a glass of poor local rosso. He decided that the area could produce better wine. In 1988, Giuseppe Benanti founded the Tenuta di Castiglione winery. He renamed the winery a decade later to Benanti after his family name.
I visited Benanti’s estate in Viagrande in 2017. The tasting room was opulent, decorated in a classical style and filled with paintings collected by Giuseppe Benanti. Somehow Benanti’s wines also reflect this ideal of romantic refinement.
Benanti: the wines
Like all the best Etnean winemakers, Benanti is very attentive to the territory, favouring a precise expression of each terroir in their bottles. Benanti’s vineyards are situated on three Etna slopes.
On the northern slope, around the town of Rovitello, Benanti produces two red wines: Contrada Dafara Galluzzo Etna Rosso and Rovitello Etna Rosso Riserva. In both cases, the grapes are sourced from Contrada Dafara Galluzzo. These wines have finesse and depth, with an energising minerality and floral undertones.
The eastern slope, around the town of Milo, is traditionally a land for white wines. Here Benanti produces their most famous wine: Pietramarina Etna Bianco Superiore. Alsatian in nature, with notable ageing capability, Pietramarina is considered by many critics to be one of Italy’s top white wines.
Benanti – Pietramarina Etna Bianco Superiore, 2013
For Pietramarina, the grapes are sourced from Contrada Rinazzo, on the eastern slope of the volcano, near Milo. This wine is made entirely from Carricante. To produce this white, the grapes are hand-harvested and softly pressed. The must is then fermented for 12 days in stainless steel vats. Before being released, the wine matures for three years: two in steel vats and then one in the bottle.
In the glass, the wine has a rich lemon hue. On the nose, it has a pronounced intensity and a focused precision. Aromas of grapefruit and yellow peach mingle with acacia leaves, hay and cardamon. Suggestions of banana and sweet petrol are reminiscent of a great Alsatian riesling. On the palate, Pietramarina is full in body and exudes profound flavours. This wine has great tension, moving between its crystalline acidity and creamy texture. The flavour profile is complex, featuring perfectly ripe citrus and yellow peach aromas as well as suggestions of candied lemon, orange blossoms, summer herbs and cardamon. Tertiary flavours are starting to develop such as sweet petrol, hay and marzipan. A poised and focused wine, nuanced and multi-layered. Long and grand finish.
On the southeast slope, near the town of Viagrande, lies Contrada Monte Serra, the source material for two reds: Contrada Monte Serra Etna Rosso and Serra Della Contessa Etna Rosso Riserva. In this area, the altitude is slightly lower and the nearby sea mitigates diurnal excursion. As a result, the wines produced on this slope are smooth and versatile while still preserving an enveloping elegance.
Lastly, on the south-west slope from Contrada Cavaliere, near the town of Santa Maria di Licodia, Benanti produces three wines: Contrada Cavaliere Etna Bianco, Contrada Cavaliere Etna Rosso and Nerello Cappuccio Terre Siciliane.
Nerello Cappuccio Terre Siciliane is labelled as Terre Siciliane IGT, since the Etna Rosso DOC doesn’t allow wines made from 100% Nerello Cappuccio. There are not many monovarietal Nerello Cappuccio wines out there. This wine is a rustic and pleasant red, with plush red fruit aromas and distinctive Mediterranean shrubs undertones. It’s not complex but round and smooth, with graceful tannins and a pleasant mouthfeel.
Benanti’s production also includes an Etna Spumante Rosato DOC (called Lamorèmio and produced with the Champagne method) and their entry-level wines: Etna Bianco, Etna Rosso and Etna Rosato. These wines offer a lovely introduction to the wine region.
Benanti – Etna Bianco, 2015
Benanti’s entry-level Etna Bianco is made entirely by Carricante. The grapes come from the estate’s vineyards across the eastern and southern slopes. Both fermentation and short maturation take place in stainless steel vats. The wine is then stored in the bottle for 2-3 months before release.
In the glass, this Etna Bianco has a pale straw-lemon hue. The nose emanates delicate notes of yellow apple, citrus fruit and lemon blossoms. On the palate, it’s medium in body with a medium+ intensity of flavours. Lively acidity with a pleasant mineral (almost salty) vein. Balanced, easy to drink and perfect for fish-based dishes.
I Vigneri di Salvo Foti – history
Not many people around the volcano are imbued with local history and knowledge like Salvo Foti. In fact, one could easily say that Salvo Foti is the epitome of the Uomo Etneo (“Etnean Man”). Born and raised in Catania, just a few kilometres from the Etna peak, Salvo Foti started his career in wine when he was 19. He worked in many historical Sicilian wineries including Benanti (see above) and has helped shape the character of Etna wines as we know it today.
In 2000, Salvo Foti created his own project: I Vigneri. The company is named after an association founded in Catania in 1435 called Maestranze dei Vigneri (meaning “the winemakers’ guild”). I Vigneri shares the same purpose as its ancient predecessor: to improve the vintners’ profession by training the next generation of viticulturists and by sharing know-how and traditional enological techniques.
Salvo Foti has great respect towards nature and traditions. He strongly protects the palmento, the traditional Sicilian building where grapes are turned into must and wine. However, above all, Salvo Foti respects the men and women working on the land. For this reason, Salvo Foti calls his creations vini umani (“human wines”). His ethos is to focus on tending to the people who grow the vines.
“I stopped growing the land and I began to grow people” (Salvo Foti)
I admit I have a soft spot for I Vigneri. I had the pleasure of meeting Salvo Foti and his son Simone in 2017 in Milo, on the eastern slope of the volcano. Afterwards, I met them a few times in London and Verona. Salvo and Simone have always struck me as a fascinating mix of charisma and humility. On each occasion, they were friendly, approachable and genuine. Their deep love and respect towards Etna and its people are undeniable. No wonder their wines are so delicious.
I Vigneri di Salvo Foti – the wines
I Vigneri produce three white wines: Aurora, Palmento Caselle and Vignadimilo.
Aurora is an Etna Bianco DOC (90% Carricante and 10% Minella) sourced by the Vigna dell’Aurora vineyard near Milo (750m in altitude). A pleasant and refined white, Aurora is light in body with a lovely combination of citrus fruit aromas and white flower suggestions.
Palmento Caselle is labelled as an Etna Bianco Superiore DOC and it’s a monovarietal Carricante. Exuding tropical fruit and citrus aroma with a mineral nerve, it’s fresh but also creamy, thanks to 12 months of maturation spent in French oak.
Vignadimilo is I Vigneri’s other Etna Bianco Superiore DOC and it’s also made entirely from the Carricante grape. It’s a complex and beautiful wine, one of my absolute favourites from the Etna region. See below for my tasting notes.
I Vigneri di Salvo Foti – Vignadimilo Etna Bianco Superiore, 2016
Vignadimilo is made entirely of Carricante. It’s the result of a special selection of grapes from the name-sake vineyard “Vigna di Milo”. The vines are ungrafted, every process is by hand and no chemical is added. This wine is fermented and aged (for 12 months) in big wooden casks. Usually, bottling takes place two years after the harvest.
In the glass, Vignadimilo has a lemon tint with moderate intensity of colour. On the nose, it seems like nothing else you have ever inhaled. Its flavours are intensely pronounced. The aromatic profile is complex, yet everything about this wine is natural and harmonious. Baked pears, yellow peach, apricot and mango skin notes chase each other in the attack. Earthy suggestions then emerge – green musk, pungent wild herbs and something grapey. Hints of almond, lime blossoms and mimosa flowers as well.
The palate is just as beautiful as the nose as it confirms all the fruity and earthy nuances perceived there. A graceful and pure minerality traverses all the multi-layered aromas of this wine. Both concentrated and precise in flavours, Vignadimilo seems like an expression of the most beautiful grapes you could ever imagine. The purity and balance here are otherworldly. A really complete wine, elegant, complex, utterly satisfying sip after sip. You can never get tired of it. Long finish, combining peachy and musky undertones.
It is now time to turn to the reds. I Vigneri produce two Etna Rosso DOC labels: I Vigneri and Vinupetra.
I Vigneri is a clean and beautiful fruit-driven red. Made from young vines (20 years is their average age) with no maturation in oak, I Vigneri is crisp, lean and satisfyingly plummy.
Vinupetra is made from older vines. It’s more complex and matured in wooden casks. When young, this red has a great precision of fruit and minerality, with a touch of sandalwood whiff. Vinupetra ages beautifully and it gains more complexity and spiciness year after year. See below my tasting notes showing what a mature Vinupetra can offer.
I Vigneri di Salvo Foti – Vinupetra Etna Rosso, 2006
In the Sicilian dialect, “Vinupetra” means “wine produced in a land full of stones”. For this wine, the grapes are sourced from the Porcaria Contrada near Castiglione di Sicilia, on Etna’s northern slope. Most of the vineyard features ultra-centenary vines, grown in the traditional Etnean way. After fermentation, the wine is matured in oak vessels for 12 months. Bottling takes place two years after the harvest.
In the glass, the wine has an attractive garnet hue, medium in intensity. On the nose, the flavours are pronounced and fragrant. Fresh and dried red fruit notes alternate – red cherry, redcurrant, red plums and dried red berries. There are also lovely nuances of potpourri, rose petals, terra rossa, sandalwood and brick minerality.
On the palate, the wine is classy and nuanced. Fresh and dried red fruit notes mark the attack. In the mid-palate, flowery undertones emerge, along with a stony minerality and a balanced medley of toast and almond aromas. Linear high acidity with fine-grained elegant tannins. Medium to full in body, but never heavy. This wine has a majestic tension and great finesse. Lovely progression and a long refined finish. Outstanding red, balancing perfectly fruitiness and tertiary flavours.
I Vigneri also produces two rosé wines: Vinudilice (still) and Vinudilice Spumante Brut Rosé (sparkling). They are labelled simply as “Vino Rosato” since they are made from grapes not allowed by the Etna Rosato DOC. Nonetheless, they are both beautiful and complex rosés. Below are my tasting notes for the still rosé – Vinudilice Rosato.
I Vigneri di Salvo Foti – Vinudilice Rosato, 2017
Vinudilice Rosato is made from the centenary vines of Vigna Bosco, the highest vineyard in the Etna region (and probably of all Italy), lying at 1200 meters above sea level.
This rosé is a field blend. The different grapes (coming from 10 varieties, both white and black-skinned) are harvested and vinified altogether. After fermentation, the wine matures for 5 months in stainless steel vats.
In the glass, this wine has a pale light pink hue. On the nose, it has a medium+ intensity of flavours. Vinudilice Rosato is delicate and nuanced, mixing red fruit aromas such as strawberry, redcurrant and rhubarb with pink grapefruit and white flower nuances. A touch of bread dough adds complexity.
On the palate, it’s light to medium in body. The wine possesses a bright high acidity and a crunchy and lively character. Ethereal and classy, Vinudilice starts with red fruit notes mixed with primrose and red geranium. Sage, nettle and bread pastry suggestions in the mid-palate, progress into a classy dry finish. A serious rosé.
Frank Cornelissen – history
Belgian Frank Cornelissen is undeniably one of the pioneers of Mount Etna. When he first visited the volcano in 1999, he was enraptured by the beauty and the potential of Etna. Firmly believing that the district could become the new Italian Côtes-de-Nuits (the Burgundian sub-region famous for its excellent reds), Frank Cornelissen quickly moved into the area to set up his visionary oenological business. The estate’s first vintage dates back to 2001 and Frank Cornelissen was soon recognised as one of the top producers in the Etna area. Today, Frank Cornelissen owns 24 hectares of land in the northern valley of Etna.
Frank Cornelissen’s approach to winemaking can be described as holistic and purist. On his website, he writes:
“Our farming philosophy is based on our acceptance of the fact that man will never be able to understand nature’s full complexity and interactions […] Accepting and following nature is our guideline as the divine ability to understand the ‘Whole’ was obviously not given to man as we are only a part of this complex and not God himself.” (Frank Cornelissen)
Frank Cornelissen eschews any artificial treatment on the land (he also refuses the interventions usually accepted by organic/biodynamic farming). Minimal filtering, no added sulphur or yeast, no fining, additives or oak (all his wines are matured in epoxy vessels, which are neutral and don’t impart any secondary flavour). Frank Cornelissen’s purism can also be seen in his choice of cellar equipment. His winery is akin to a surgical operation room: everything is sparkling clean. This is because Frank Cornelissen doesn’t want anything to interfere with the purity of the excellent grapes he brings from the vineyards.
Frank Cornelissen is a great believer in terroir and biodiversity. For most of his wines, the grapes are sourced from a single contrada (I explained what a contrada is in the previous article of this series). All the Etnea traditions are followed religiously. These include the alberello training system, the use of ungrafted vines, the adoption of terraced vineyards and the introduction of local fruit and vegetables to rebalance and enrich the soil. The overarching aim is to offer an unadulterated expression of the specific Etnean territoriality that you can feel and taste in the glass.
Frank Cornelissen – the wines
Frank Cornelissen labels all his wines with the Terre Siciliane IGP denomination. This is a technically less stringent appellation than the Etna DOC system, giving the winemaker more freedom in his choices. Nevertheless, his wines in a wholesome manner reflect Etna’s character and personality.
Most of Frank Cornelissen’s production is focused on the Nerello Mascalese grape. Therefore, apart from a couple of whites, all of his wines are reds or rosés.
The two white wines are Munjebel Bianco Classico and Munjebel Bianco VA Cuvee Vigne Alte. Munjebel Bianco Classico is vinified as an orange wine. It has enticing savoury aromas mixing with yellow plums and floral undertones. On the palate, it’s round yet dynamic. Munjebel Bianco VA Cuvee Vigne Alte is produced from high-altitude vineyards (between 900 and 1000 metres asl) and from ungrafted vines. It’s complex, with tremendous depth, crystalline acidity and superb mineral texture.
Looking at the Nerello Mascalese-led wines, the Susucaru line constitutes Cornelissen’s entry-level wines. Susucaru Rosato is technically a rosé wine, although in practice it is closer to a light red. Fruit-driven and very drinkable, it’s refreshing and light in body. Susucaru Rosso (formerly known as ‘Rosso del Contadino’) is a field blend of mostly Nerello Mascalese (85%), where grapes are gathered from all the estate’s vineyards. It’s a fragrant wine with a pure expression of red fruit and nuances of Mediterranean shrubs.
All the other reds are terroir driven and made from a single contrada. The Munjebel Rosso series is made up of 11 wines, each labelled with an acronym identifying the specific contrada where the grapes are sourced. They are extremely precise and elegant wines, multi-layered and ethereal. Their red fruit component is always glorious, fusing juiciness and crispiness. Interspersed with the fruit notes is a wide array of herbal and mineral spices characteristic of each individual terroir. Below are my tasting notes of Munjebel FM.
Frank Cornelissen – Munjebel FM Contrada Feudo di Mezzo – Sottana, 2017
Like all the wines of this fine line, Munjebel FM is made entirely from Nerello Mascalese. The grapes are sourced from the Sottana Cru, the bottom part of the Feudo di Mezzo Contrada near Passopisciaro, on the northern slope of Etna. During fermentation only indigenous yeasts are used, after which the wine is aged for 3 years in neutral epoxy tanks before release.
The wine has a light ruby hue and medium intensity of colour. On the nose, it exhibits pronounced yet laser-like precision of flavours. The red plums and red cherry pulp notes are succulent but also show great elegance and refinement. A touch of dried red fruit notes can be perceived along with liquorice root, myth, earth and black stone minerality.
On the palate, the flavours are intense, deep and fragrant. Fresh and dried red fruit notes dance with black sultana, earth, undergrowth, potpourri and crushed stone. This wine is both ripe and extremely focused. Medium in body with a velvety mouthfeel. High in acidity with a refined tannic structure (tannins are medium+ and fine-knitted). It is smooth and has a long finish. An outstanding Nerello Mascalese.
Frank Cornelissen’s Grand Vin is called Magma Rosso. A monovarietal Nerello Mascalese red from ungrafted old vines. Its fruit comes from the Barbecchi vineyard lying at 910 metres of altitude. Produced only in the best vintages, Magma Rosso is a profound and rich wine. The primary flavours verge on black fruit. The wine is more succulent and full in body than other wines by this producer. Regardless, Magma is full of refinement and personality.
Tenuta di Fessina – history
To conclude my overview of Etna winemakers, I draw your attention to Tenuta di Fessina, created by Silvia Maestrelli in 2007. Originally from the Chianti region of Tuscany, Silvia Maestrelli was the first female winemaker to be established in the Etna area.
Silvia Maestrelli moved to Etna in 2006. Like many others, she immediately fell in love with the volcano. Silvia Maestrelli found a beautiful 18th-century mill on the northern slope of Etna, near Rovittello. Determined to conduct the business operations from the mill, she conducted long negotiations with the original 11 land owners to purchase her initial plot, a majestic vineyard planted with 80 years old Nerello Mascalese vines.
In the following years, Tenuta di Fessina expanded to 10 hectares of land scattered across the northern, eastern and southern slopes of the volcano. Silvia Maestrelli, her husband Roberto Silva and the oenologist Federico Curtaz brought Tenuta di Fessina to international acclaim and won several accolades as a testimony to their excellence.
Silvia Maestrelli brought a feminine sensitivity to a culture traditionally led by men. Tenuta di Fessina believes in the power of their terroir, combining the peculiar character of the land with a refined elegance.
Sadly, Silvia Maestrelli prematurely passed away in 2022, leaving a great void in the Etna wine world. Today, the Maestrelli family and gastronome/communicator Jacopo Maniaci run the business.
Tenuta di Fessina – the wines
Tenuta di Fessina’s Erse wine line is named after the Greek goddess of Dew, an apt name for these youthful and crisp wines. We begin with Erse Bianco, Erse Rosso and Erse Rosato.
Erse Bianco is an Etna Bianco DOC with good acidity and minerality, medium body and zesty citrus fruit aromas. While Erse Rosso is an unoaked and fruity Etna Rosso DOC, with lovely floral and garrigue undertones. Erse Rosato is labelled as Etna Rosato DOC – a lively rosé and easy to drink.
Part of Tenuta di Fessina’s white wine production is the A’Puddara Etna Bianco DOC. A serious and structured white wine, it’s made entirely from Carricante. The grapes are sourced from the Biancavilla district, on the southwest slope of the Etna volcano. The zesty grapefruit and nectarine flavours of this wine are cut through by an impressive granite minerality. A’Puddara Etna Bianco DOC is a wine which shows harmonious elegance and exciting character. A great wine that is worth putting away in the cellar for a few years too.
Another grand white by Tenuta di Fessina is il Musmeci Bianco Contrada Caselle. Labelled an Etna Bianco DOC, it’s a 100% Carricante made entirely from the Contrada Caselle near Milo. Il Musmeci Bianco is a complex wine of crystalline acidity and a saline and savoury finish.
Turning now to the red wines. Besides the aforementioned Erse Rosso, Tenuta di Fessina also produces Laeneo, il Musmeci Rosso and il Musmeci Rosso Riserva Speciale.
Laeneo is labelled as a Sicilia DOC since it’s a monovarietal Nerello Cappuccio (such wines are not permitted under the Etna DOC system). Laeneo is a rustic yet totally satisfying wine. At its core are red and black fruit aromas. Suggestions of animal fur, black pepper and charred wood surround. Although Nerello Cappuccio is somehow considered “inferior” to his Mascalese brother, this wine shows that Cappuccio can make serious reds as well.
Both il Musmeci Rosso and il Musmeci Rosso Riserva Speciale are labelled as Etna Rosso Riserva DOC and are the top-tier reds of this winery. With trademark velvety tannins and elegant structure, they are complex wines bursting with crunchy red fruit which mingle with balsamic and herbal undertones. See below my tasting notes for il Musmeci Rosso.
Tenuta di Fessina – il Musmeci Etna Rosso Riserva, 2011
Il Musmeci Rosso is made entirely from the Nerello Mascalese grapes grown in the estate Cru in Rovittello, located on Etna’s northern slope. After fermentation, the wine is matured for 10-12 months in French oak barrels, followed by 6-8 months in bigger oak vessels and then an additional 4 years (minimum) in bottle before release.
In the glass, the wine has a ruby hue verging into garnet – medium intensity of colour. On the nose, il Musmeci Rosso has a pronounced intensity of flavours. It’s deep, fresh and concentrated. Lively red fruit notes (red cherry, redcurrant, raspberry) alternate with perfumed violet and earthy undertones. Whiffs of juniper, liquorice and white pepper add further complexity. An early stage of evolution is shown by the notes of tobacco, game and dried rose.
On the palate, all the pleasant sensations savoured in the nose are corroborated. This red features a seamless integration of flavours. Classy and perfectly balanced, it’s crisp, perfectly harmonising ripeness and tautness. Red fruit notes intermingle with toasty, earthy and herbal nuances. Medium+ in tannins with crystalline high acidity and medium to full in body. The wine’s mouthfeel is velvety yet alive, progressing dynamically towards a harmonious long finish. A touch of iron minerality and flowery hints linger in the aftertaste.
Conclusion
I hope you enjoyed my two-part series dedicated to Etna wines. In the first article, I dealt with the region’s folklore and history as well as its grape varieties and DOC appellations. This concluding article of my series was dedicated to four Etna winemakers whom I know and value.
Of course, there are many more details about Etna and other amazing vintners to discover. As per the nature of my blog, I can only give you a peek into the offerings of this fantastic wine region.
Truth is, Etna is one of my favourite wine regions in Italy and in the world. I hope my series has made you fall in love with Etna and its wonders – or at the very least sparked your curiosity to learn more. Either way, you might want to make Sicily your next holiday destination and find out what all the fuss is about!
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