Carla Tiago’s path to becoming Kopké’s lead winemaker is a tale of passion, family history and a love for making wines. Originally from Peredo dos Castelhanos, Portugal, Carla grew up surrounded by her father’s vineyards but decided to pursue a degree in biochemistry.
In 2005, she interned at Sogevinus and realized she was ready to pivot to winemaking after working a harvest in Douro. That led to another harvest and then working on the still wines for the company. But she had some big shoes to fill at the oldest Port wine house in the world, dating back to 1683.
History
Kopké was established in 1638 by German diplomat Nicolau Kopkë and his son Cristiano and originally was named Nicolau Kopké and Company. It stayed in the family for generations until it was acquired in the late 19th Century to the Bohane family. In 1952, the Barrros Company, another Port wine company, acquired the property. In 2006, it was acquired by the Sogevinus Group where Carla’s story begins.
Originally Kopké was a wine trading company but transitioned to winemaking in 1922 after purchasing Quinta de São Luiz Vineyards.
Carla’s Involvement
In 2007, Carla joined Kopké as the winemaker at Quinta de São Luiz, responsible for making the estate’s Port and Douro wines. You would think that continuing the legacy of making wines at the world’s oldest port house would be daunting, but there appears to be a balance between maintaining traditions that were centuries old while innovating with new techniques backed by a company that is willing to invest.
The Types of Port Wine
Honestly, I had no idea of the complexity and styles of port. I knew Tawny, of course, but had no idea of the full spectrum and how the level of sugar depends on the wine produced.
Kopké has a unique approach to aging their ports, particularly their Colheitas and aged Tawny Ports, which go beyond legal aging requirements. While Colheita Ports must be aged for a minimum of seven years in barrels before release, Kopké goes several steps beyond by aging its Colheitas ports for at least 10 years and still bottles them to order. And it pays off as you taste complex flavors and layers while watching the evolution of the color of the past 100 years showing differing flavors of each vintage. This is done for both whites and reds.
I also had the chance to try white port and aged white port. They are aged for to garner complex flavors while maintaining the freshness of the wine.
Here are the ports that I tried:
- Kopké 20-Year-Old Tawny – notes of fig, plum apricot, cinnamon and almond. This was a well balanced wine.
- 2005 Kopké Colhetta – notes of dried fruit, caramel, earth, spice and flowers.
- 2012 Kopké Vintage Quinta de São Luiz Port – lots of notes of red and black fruit, balsamic vinegar and chocolate.
- Kopké 20 Year White – these were my first white ports, and they were a treat. There were notes of dried fruit, flowers, peach, tropical fruit, honey, caramel and vanilla.
- 2005 Kopké White Colhetta – notes of apricot, citrus, hazelnut and honey.
By using these aging techniques, Kopké creates ports with distinctive characteristics, showcasing the depth and complexity that extended barrel aging can impart to both red and white ports.
Carla’s Role and Challenges
As a winemaker at Kopké, Carla faces the unique challenge of stewarding wines that span generations. She describes her role as caretaker of wines made by previous generations, ensuring their proper maintenance while creating new wines for future generations
This responsibility involves managing an extensive inventory of aged Tawny Ports, some dating back to the 1930s
Looking to the Future
Carla Tiago’s work at Kopké represents a bridge between the house’s rich history and its future. Her expertise in blending and aging processes, combined with her deep respect for Kopké’s heritage, ensures the continued production of exceptional Port wines. As Carla puts it, her role is “only a very small part of the process,” highlighting the continuity and legacy that define Kopké’s approach to winemaking. She is also one of the few women who paved a path for the next generation of women making wine in Portugal.
With Carla Tiago’s leadership, Kopké continues to innovate while honoring its historic roots, maintaining its position as a leader in the Port wine industry and preserving a winemaking tradition of almost four centuries.
The post Carla Tiago’s Journey: From Biochemistry to Mastering Kopké’s Centuries-Old Port House appeared first on DallasWineChick.com.
