Having launched the latest-generation Type XX last year, Breguet is adding to the family with the Type XX Chronograph 2067 in rose gold, a new take on the “civilian” aviator’s chronograph.

Inspired by a historical design, the latest Type XX features the a 12-hour bezel and three registers, along with a sophisticated, high-frequency chronograph movement.

The cal. 728

Initial thoughts

While the new Type XX is described by Breguet as being inspired by the vintage Type XX no. 1780 – one of just three vintage Type 20s in gold – it is an entirely modern watch in look and feel. The vintage inspiration is visible,  but the colours, materials, and finishing bestow a polished, modern look, which is a good thing.

This contrasts with last year’s Type XX in steel that tried too hard to look vintage with faux-aged lume and lance-shaped hands, which was at odds with the overall look and feel. The new Type XX, on the other hand, looks coherently contemporary.

With a dial and hands resembling that of the 1990s-era Type XX, the new chronograph also looks more proportional and balanced, though it retains the same dimensions as last year’s model. Interestingly, though the new Type XX has the date window in exactly the same place as last year’s watch, the date does not look as obvious here.

Priced at US$37,900, the new Type XX 2067 is more affordable than the competition. The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 chronograph in pink gold, for example, retails for US$49,700. Admittedly, the cal. 728 inside doesn’t have the same level of decorative finishing, but it is finished well and also boasts sophisticated construction.

Considering the overall quality as well as the movement, the Type XX in rose gold is a well-priced contender in the high-end automatic chronograph segment. It’s a shame that this design is not available in steel, though it is likely only a matter of time.

Gold and ceramic

Like last year’s models, the latest Type XX draws inspiration from a vintage example, specifically the Type XX no. 1780 now in the Breguet museum. However, it is an entirely modern watch built to today’s specs and proportions, and features one of the newest chronograph movements launched by a high-end brand.

An example of the vintage Type XX in gold

The new Type XX has the same dimensions as last year’s model, which means it is relatively large. The rose gold case is 42 mm in diameter and 14.1 mm high. Water-resistant to 100 m, the case is satin-finished with a wide polished bevel on each lug.

The gold case is matched with a sun-ray brushed blue dial and applied elements that are solid gold, namely the “Breguet” logo, syringe-shaped hands, and hour numerals. The snailed sub-dials are recessed, while the date window sits in between four and five o’clock.

The hands, numerals, and 12 o’clock marker on the bezel are filled with Super-LumiNova.

Inside is the in-house cal. 728, a self-winding, integrated chronograph movement with a fly-back function, vertical clutch, and column wheel. It also runs at 36,000 beats per hour (5 Hz), making it one of the few recent high-frequency chronograph movements, which are especially uncommon amongst higher-end brands.

Like many newer Breguet movements, the cal. 728 equipped with a free-sprung balance, along with a hairspring and escape wheel in silicon, boosting the magnetism-resistance of the movement.

Notably, the chronograph incorporates a patented stop-and-reset system for the flyback mechanism. This innovative, all-or-nothing system ensures the flyback (as well as reset) function performs consistently and reliably regardless of the force applied on the reset button.

The cal. 728 seen in the steel version of the Type XX

Key facts and price

Breguet Type XX Chronograph
Ref. 2067RK/Y9/9WU

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 14.1 mm
Material: 18k rose gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 100 m

Movement: Cal. 728
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, and fly-back chronograph
Winding: Automatic
Power reserve: 60 hours

Strap: Blue alligator strap and blue NATO fabric strap with 18k pin buckle

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at Breguet boutiques and retailers
Price: US$37,900

For more, visit breguet.com