Although it’s been less than two years since its founding, Biver has already launched its second model, the Automatique. Using that as the base, the brand created the Automatique “Echoes of this Moment”, a unique piece crafted in collaboration with a Swiss artist for TimeForArt, a charity auction taking place in November to benefit the Swiss Institute, a nonprofit focused on contemporary art education.

Initial thoughts

The standard Automatique is undeniably a finely executed watch, especially the micro-rotor automatic calibre within. Although the aesthetics of the regular-production model aren’t perfectly cohesive, the exquisite quality of the movement and attention to detail make it one of the most interesting new time-only creations from an independent.

This unique piece improves the aesthetics of the Automatique because it simplifies the design. The standard version has an elaborately finished dial that combines too many elements – faceted indices, brushed sectors, an engraved seconds track, and sharp polished hands. In contrast, the unique Automatique keeps the look simple, while still having a complex, artisanal dial decoration. Here the handmade dial – that’s both engraved and enamelled – can be admired for what it is, with no distractions.

An artful dial

The New York-based Swiss Institute was set up to promote contemporary art through events and exhibitions. Now in its second edition, TimeForArt was conceived to benefit the non-profit. Biver is one of several brands contributing one-off watches to the auction, with other participants including Chanel. TimeForArt will take place as part of Phillips’ The New York Watch Auction: XI on December 7, 2024.

Guillaume Ehinger with Pierre Biver

Biver’s creation for the auction is centred on a striking, crimson-hued dial conceived with the help of Swiss painter Guillaume Ehinger. Mostly abstract compositions loosely inspired by natural landscapes, his works explore the theme of fleeting memories, which is also evolved by the dial of “Echoes of this Moment”.

The dial is mesmerising, whether admired from afar or up close. It starts out as an 18k white gold base that is hand engraved with a wave-like pattern of fine ripples. The engraving is then covered in layers of translucent enamel in varied hues of red, pink, and purple, creating a shimmering, nuanced surface.

The palette is mostly red and crimson nuances, all on the darker end of the spectrum, which result in a dial that catches the light effectively. Its surface looks different depending on how the light hits, while the motif hints at a landscape of some sort but all the while remaining abstract. The dial intuitively evokes the concept Mr Ehinger’s theme of fleeting memories and the restless march of time.

The polished and brushed hands pair well with the dial, without drawing attention away from the decoration

A great calibre

Underneath the dial is the brand’s in-house micro-rotor movement, JCB-003. The movement is practically identical to that in the standard model, except for the 22k gold micro-rotor. Here the micro-rotor coarsely brushed and engraved with Ehinger’s signature, along with the year and name of the piece. 

The rest of JCB-003 is otherwise unchanged, meaning it is extensively elaborate. The bridges are covered with a deep clou de Paris guilloche, while steel parts are extensively polished and the bevels sharply cut. The movement is almost over-engineered, with a complex click wheel for the winding system and a shock absorber for the escape wheel.

The JCB-003 runs for 65 hours on a single barrel and beats at the unusual rate of 3.5 Hz with a free-sprung balance.

Similarly, the 39 mm case is almost identical to that of the regular production version. In a first for the Automatique, the case is in steel, emphasising the fact that the focus is fundamentally the dial. And it is finished differently from the standard model: the concave bezel and top of the lugs are brushed rather than polished, and the case back is discreetly engraved with “Time For Art”.

Key facts and price

Biver Automatique “Echoes of this Moment” Unique Piece

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 10 mm
Material: Stainless steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 80 m

Movement: JCB-003
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 25,200 beats per hour (3.5 Hz)
Power reserve: 65 hours

Strap: Fabric and Alcantara strap with steel buckle

Limited edition: Piece unique
Availability: To be sold at TimeForArt on December 7
Price: Estimate of US$60,000-120,000

For more, visit jcbiver.com.