As we look back on in-cosmetics Global 2024, it allows us to reflect on the biggest trends, learnings, and takeaways from this year’s flagship event in Paris.

Hosting over 12,000 visitors and upwards of 1,000 exhibitors, the show went off without a hitch. With experts and enthusiasts hailing from all sides of the global beauty and personal care industry, coming together to network, connect, and engage in meaningful face-to-face discussions, the event spotlighted some of the biggest innovations and scientific breakthroughs in ingredients to date.

In addition to the numerous product releases, with exhibitors showcasing their latest innovative solutions, the show acted as a valuable platform for learning and engagement. The event’s theatres and conference areas, including the Marketing Trends Theatre, Technical Seminars, and Sustainability Zone Forum were a breeding ground for pioneering discussions around the future of beauty and personal care and beyond.

Home to many of the world’s most iconic make up and cosmetics brands, Paris was an appropriate setting for in-cosmetics Global 2024. Living up to its reputation, developments in the French market were full of originality and innovation, with ingredient manufacturers from the region launching some exciting new products and delving deep into the world of beauty and personal care.

Fostering a sustainable future

With sustainability standing firm as a core pillar of this year’s event, eco-friendly practices were reflected in many of the newly released ingredients in the region.

For example, French producer of natural, active ingredients, Actichem introduced Resvinia, a groundbreaking natural hair care ingredient sourced from upcycled French vine shoots. Efficacy studies have proven that this active can be used in haircare formulations to reduce hair loss, stimulate hair growth, and offer both protection and anti-pollution properties. Meanwhile, the upcycling element of the process has the potential to significantly reduce waste throughout production.

Sustainable methods of ingredient sourcing such as upcycling are becoming increasingly commonplace in markets across the globe. This is especially true in the French market where consumers are demanding a new approach.

According to data from Klarna, 61% of French women reported that they would be prepared to spend more money on environmentally friendly skincare, while 33% believe that respect for sustainability should become mandatory for manufacturers.

This trend was proliferated throughout numerous aspects of the show, with many other exhibitors and visitors demonstrating their commitment to sustainable practices moving forward.

Another organisation from the region which showcased its expertise in this area was the Herbarom Group, a French manufacturer of natural cosmetics that specialises in using natural ingredients and plant extracts. Located in the heart of one of France’s main fruit-growing regions, Herbarom Laboratoirer has easy access to a range of invaluable natural resources.

Supporting this eco-friendly approach, the organisation has recently formed a strategic partnership with ChestNut, a local company specialising in the recovery of raw materials from arboriculture to source flowers. At the show, Herbarom Labratoire released its new upcycled ingredient, Chestnut hydroglycerine extract, obtained from the pericarp of chestnuts intended to be consumed in the form of marrons glacés confectionery.

These notable innovations highlight the growing trend towards sustainable ingredient sourcing, largely driven by a rising consumer demand for environmentally responsible cosmetic products in the French region. Of course, the move towards sustainable practices will require collaborative efforts, improved regulatory support and a continued consumer education.

Well-ageing: a reimagined approach

One of the most progressive themes at this year’s in-cosmetics Global event, was the idea of a reimagined approached to ageing. Where anti-ageing products and practices have previously reigned supreme among beauty brands and consumers, the focus is now beginning to shift as the market embraces a more inclusive view.

French women, known for their embrace of ageing, embody this shift. Their philosophy aligns with Coco Chanel‘s famous quote: “Life shapes the face you have at thirty. But at fifty you get the face you deserve.” In France, ageing gracefully is about self-acceptance and inner beauty, prioritising natural skincare and a balanced approach over aggressive anti-aging measures.

Numerous sessions at the show reflected on the trend that’s commonly being referred to as ‘well-ageing’ or ‘pro-ageing’.

For example, Joonseok Cha, PhD, Research Director at The Garden of Naturalsolution, led a popular technical seminar on ‘Anti-ageing: Top to Bottom’, which focused on the emerging trend of ‘slow and well ageing’ over ‘anti-ageing’ as he noted that teenagers as young as 14-years-old are adopting practices to target wrinkles. Cha shared research findings on a variety of ingredients, underscoring their potential in helping to slow the ageing process, naturally.

Meanwhile, Michele Superchi, Vice President at BEAUTYSTREAMS – a leading insights platform for the global beauty industry – presented a session entitled, ‘Health-Span Beauty: The impact of longevity on our industry’.

Superchi highlighted that the impact of advanced technologies, more effective medicines, and a better understanding of our bodies, have significantly extended the average human life span. In a world that lives longer, Superchi emphasised that youth cannot be the only solution to beauty, suggesting that a more inclusive future beauty industry would acknowledge and celebrate the beautiful moments in every age category.

While there’s no doubt that the anti-ageing therapeutics market in France remains robust – with projections[1] to reach $53 million by 2030 and an expected 15.53% CAGR throughout the forecast period – there’s a shift on the horizon. Many French cosmetics consumers are increasingly embracing the idea of self-acceptance, and as a result, their relationship with different cosmetic products is changing.

Specialist sensory and consumer research and testing organisation, Syres[2], conducted some recent research exploring well-ageing and the key beauty challenges for female French consumers above the age of 55.

When asked about their definition of beauty, respondents most frequently cited the notions of well-being and self-acceptance (62%), mentioning “feeling good about yourself despite the years” and “accepting yourself as you are”.

The results suggest that respondents – women over the age of 55 – predominantly remain positive, serene and feel good about themselves. Despite being much less known in France than in Asia, the research concluded that the well-ageing trend fits perfectly with what women in the region are looking for – namely products that extend the beauty of their skin in a natural way, while taking care of them inside and out.

This evolving mindset is paving the way for a more holistic and inclusive beauty industry, one that prioritises wellbeing and self-acceptance over the elusive pursuit of eternal youth. As the trend gains traction, it signals a significant shift in consumer attitudes and market dynamics, highlighting a future where beauty is celebrated at every stage of life.

in-cosmetics Global 2024 offered insight into some of the most prevalent trends and significant innovations taking hold of the French cosmetics industry to date.

The emphasis on sustainability, with initiatives like upcycling reflects a growing consumer demand for environmentally responsible products.

Additionally, the shift from traditional anti-ageing to the introduction of a more inclusive “well-ageing” approach highlights a broader acceptance of beauty at all life stages. The trends indicate a transformative period in the industry, driven by technological advancements, consumer preferences, and a collective commitment to sustainability and wellbeing. As the French market continues to evolve, it sets a precedent for the global beauty industry, championing innovation and inclusivity in equal measure.

in-cosmetics Global 2025 will take place from 8-10 April 2025 at the RAI Amsterdam Convention Centre in Amsterdam, the Netherlands. For more information and to register interest to attend, visit here.

[1] https://www.insights10.com/report/france-anti-aging-therapeutics-market-analysis/

[2] https://www.syres.com/ds/news/2304/well-aging-survey-of-women-over-55-in-france2c-syngapour/

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