Okanagan Crush Pad concrete eggs (Credit Lionel Trudel)
The history of using amphora and concrete tanks for winemaking dates back centuries. Amphorae, large clay vessels with narrow necks and handles, were widely used in ancient civilizations such as the Greeks and Romans for storing and transporting wine. These vessels provided an ideal environment for fermentation and aging, as the porous nature of clay allowed for a gentle exchange of oxygen, resulting in unique flavours and textures in the wine.
In recent years, there has been a resurgence in the use of amphora and concrete tanks in winemaking. This trend is driven by a desire to reconnect with traditional winemaking techniques and explore the distinctive characteristics they impart to the wine. Amphorae, in particular, have gained popularity due to their ability to enhance the expression of terroir and encourage natural fermentation. The clay walls allow for subtle oxygenation, promoting complex aromas and flavours while preserving the freshness and vibrancy of the wine.
Concrete tanks also have a long history in winemaking, dating back to the early 19th century. They were widely used in regions like Bordeaux, France, where they offered a practical alternative to wooden barrels. Concrete tanks provide excellent insulation and temperature stability, allowing for slow and steady fermentation. They are non-reactive vessels, which means they do not impart any flavours or aromas to the wine, making them ideal for preserving the purity of the fruit.
Compared to oak barrels and stainless steel tanks, amphora and concrete tanks offer distinct advantages. Oak barrels, typically used for aging wine, impart flavours and aromas such as vanilla, spice, and toastiness. Stainless steel tanks, on the other hand, provide a neutral environment, preserving the fruit flavours without adding any additional complexity. Amphora and concrete tanks bridge the gap between the two. They offer a degree of oxygenation, similar to barrels while maintaining the fruit purity characteristic of stainless steel. The resulting wines can exhibit a balance between freshness, texture, and complexity.
In Canada and the United States, the use of amphora and concrete tanks is on the rise. Many wineries, particularly those focusing on small-batch, artisanal production, have incorporated these vessels into their winemaking processes. In regions like British Columbia and the Pacific Northwest, where cool-climate wines thrive, the use of concrete tanks allows for longer, controlled fermentations that highlight the fruit’s natural acidity. Amphorae are also gaining popularity, as winemakers in these regions seek to express the unique characteristics of their vineyards and experiment with different fermentation techniques.
The number of BC wineries using concrete tanks and/or amphoras is growing. I believe that Okanagan Crush Pad was the first BC winery to purchase and use concrete “egg” tanks. In case this is a new term for you, it is a concrete tank that is in the shape of an egg in which the shape allows a natural churning of the must as it ferments. Okanagan Crush Pad also uses clay amphorae. From my investigations, other BC wineries using concrete tanks/eggs and/or amphora are:
Blue Grouse Estate Winery has used amphora to make Bacchus, Pinot Gris, and Ortega wines.
40 Knots Winery uses concrete eggs for a Chardonnay and a Pinot Noir wine.
Stag’s Hollow Winery uses concrete eggs to make a Chardonnay, Syrah, and Rosé wines.
CedarCreek Estate Winery uses an amphora to make their Amphora Project wines and uses concrete to make their other wines.
Bella Wines use concrete tanks to ferment and age their base wines before secondary fermentation in the bottle.
Lock & Worth Winery uses concrete tanks for their Sauvignon Blanc and Merlot wines.
Tantalus Vineyards uses concrete tanks for its Riesling and Chardonnay wines.
Sperling Vineyards uses concrete eggs for its Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir wines.
Synchromesh Wines uses concrete tanks for its Riesling wines.
There may be other BC wineries using these vessels. If you know of a winery not on this list, please post a comment below and I can add it to the list. In the meantime, seek out a bottle of wine from one of these wineries and see the difference concrete and clay can play in winemaking.
