Audemars Piguet has unveiled a fresh rendition of the famed Royal Oak “Jumbo” with the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Titanium BMG ref. 16202XT. Featuring a smoked burgundy dial, this latest version is set apart by its materials – a titanium case complemented by a bulk metallic glass (BMG) bezel – that are the same as those of the unique ref. 15202XT created for Only Watch 2021. 

Initial thoughts

While the classical steel “Jumbo” gets most of the attention, the most interesting version of the ref. 16202 in my view is the platinum model, mainly due to the smoked green dial. The platinum model has an appealing radial brushed finish on the dial that was exclusive to that variant, making it quite different from the usual tapisserie guilloche. It’s good to see the same dial finish on another model, and this time with an even more striking burgundy red dial.

What sets the new “Jumbo” apart are the case materials: titanium and BMG. Though the materials are identical to the Only Watch edition, the finishing is different. The Only Watch edition was mostly sandblasted. This, on the other hand, has the conventional brushed finish of the Royal Oak. And of course the movements differ between the ref. 15202 and ref. 16202.

Still, this remains a “Jumbo” is most respects – size, shape, and style. Yet, with its smoked dial and unusual case material, it becomes an interesting new watch. Whilst it will become part of the permanent collection, it will presumably be produced in less-than-significant quantities. That said, given the well-established slowdown in demand for such watches, landing one might be more possible than it was a 18 months ago.

Burgundy 

The new “Jumbo” clearly draws significant inspiration from the one-of-a-kind ref. 15202XT created for the Only Watch charity auction in 2021. The case materials, titanium and BMG, are identical.

Titanium is a well-established material in watchmaking, but the same cannot be said for BMG, here in an alloy that includes palladium. Also known as amorphous metal, BMG lacks the ordered-crystal structure found in conventional alloys. Instead, it has a structureless grouping of atoms akin to glass that is achieved by cooling the liquid alloy rapidly.

The Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 15202XT made for Only Watch 2021. Image – Audemars Piguet

Unlike the Only Watch “Jumbo,” this timepiece has a brushed case and bracelet as is convention for the Royal Oak. The brushed components are framed by mirror-polished bevels, delineating the edges of both the case and bracelet. Meanwhile, the BMG components, namely the bezel and centre links, have a polished finish.

Another noteworthy aspect of this new release is the dial. Unlike the typical Royal Oak dial that features a chequerboard tapisserie pattern, this boasts a radially brushed finish with a red-to-black gradient. The dial finish evokes the platinum version ref. 15202, but unusually this has pink gold indices that complement the reddish dial, instead of the usual colour-matching indices and hands that go with the case colour. Also notable is the tone-on-tone date disc that camouflages the date display somewhat.

Other than the dial colour and case material, the rest of the watch conforms to those of the standard “Jumbo” ref. 16202. The case measures 39 mm in diameter and 8.1 mm high.

Housed inside is the cal. 7121, which made its debut last year during the Royal Oak’s 50th anniversary. While maintaining the slim profile of its predecessor but boasting enhanced user-friendliness. It incorporates a quick-set date function, offers a respectable 55-hour power reserve (impressive given its slender build), and includes a full balance bridge that enhances stability and shock resistance.

Key facts and price

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin 39 mm
Ref. 16202XT.OO.1240XT.01

Diameter: 39 mm
Height: 8.1 mm
Material: Titanium and bulk metallic glass
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 7121
Functions: Hours, minutes and date
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 28,800 beats per hours (4 Hz)
Power reserve: 55 hours

Strap: Matching bracelet

Limited edition: No
Availability: At AP Houses and boutiques
Price: Price on Request

For more information, visit Audemarspiguet.com.