To mark founder Michel Parmigiani’s 74th birthday, Parmigiani Fleurier created the L’Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse, a minute repeater without a tangible time indication on the face.

Instead, the enamelled, guilloché dial on the front is purely decorative, with the repeater to tell the time on the wrist. But there is the time on the back of the watch thanks to a pair of discreet, peripheral hands.

Initial thoughts

Among the many complications, the minute repeater is one of my favourites. The beauty of a minute repeater lies in its acoustic time indication, which makes hands redundant in some ways. The L’Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse takes this concept to its logical conclusion in a gorgeously executed manner. The elaborate dial and case, however, result in the watch being very large, big enough that it loses some of the refinement and details present in a smaller case.

Several notable artisans contributed to the watch, including Vanessa Lecci for the enamelling. The movement was supplied by Renaud & Papi, which is a fine, high-end movement but it’s a bit of a shame that Parmigiani didn’t utilise one of its in-house repeater calibres.

A fascinating complication

Like many historical Parmigiani models, the styling of the L’Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse is inspired by Ancient Greece. The fluted case middle is modelled on Doric columns, while the engine turning on the dial and the back are inspired by the Fibonacci sequence.

It’s a large watch, with a 18k white gold case that measures 41.6 mm in diameter and 12.65 mm in thickness. The case is equipped with polished, angular lugs while the minute repeater slide sits on the left of the case.

The dial is finished in flinque enamel, which is translucent, sage green fired enamel over a guilloche base. This is matched by an enamelled crown that bears the “PF” emblem.

The enamelling was the work of Vanessa Lecci, while the  guilloché was done by Yann Von Kaenel. And the engraving in the centre of the dial was by Eddy Jaquet.

The guilloche and engraving is mirrored on the back, but without enamelling. They form the central decoration, with the time is displayed on the perimeter.

A chapter ring of white Guatemalan jade chapter ring carries the spherical minute track, while a pair of peripheral hands taking the shape of letters “H” and “M” indicate the time.

This particular configuration means the movement is hidden, but it is a PF355 that was made by Renaud & Papi, the complications workshop of Audemars Piguet. It has a power reserve of 72 hours and beats at 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz).

Equipped with extra-long cathedral gongs for a more resonant tone, the movement chimes the hours, quarters, and minutes on request. The interior of the case middle, back, and dial have been hollowed out to boost the resonance and volume of the chimes.

Only five examples of the L’Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse will be made, each being a piece unique with different decoration. The watches are each delivered in a resonator box made from spruce sourced from the Risoud forest in the Vallee de Joux.

Key facts and price

Parmigiani Fleurier L’Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse
Ref. PFH990-2010001-300181

Diameter: 41.6 mm
Height: 12.65 mm
Material: 18k white gold
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 10 m

Movement: Cal. PF355
Functions: Hours, minutes, and minute repeater
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Hand-wind
Power reserve: 72 hours

Strap: Taupe hand-stitched alligator leather strap

Limited edition: Five examples, each piece unique
Availability: Now at Parmigiani boutiques and retailers
Price: Approximately CHF800,000

For more, visit parmigiani.com.