Omega revived the CK 2998-inspired Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” earlier in the year. More than just another remake, I am convinced the FOiS may just be the perfect Speedmaster, at least for me.

The second-generation “First Omega in Space” (FOiS) sports details that will appeal to enthusiasts, including a blue-grey “soleil” dial and domed sapphire crystal that completes the vintage-inspired look. And it’s powered by the latest generation Moonwatch cal. 3861.

Initial thoughts

Despite being interested in watches since my sophomore year in high school, I can’t say that the Speedmaster was ever a go-to watch for me. I have had a couple of Speedies here and there, but the model was never the centre of my attention as a collector. I mostly felt the modern Speedmaster, in its many forms, is good, especially for the price point, but never perfect.

Based on that experience, I didn’t expect much of the FOiS, thinking it be yet another reissue, which is why I hesitated when I got the call from the Omega boutique in Seoul.

My opinion changed when I went to the boutique to try it on. I was surprised to see how appealing it looked on the wrist, especially compared to the first-generation FOiS that was too plain with a black dial that seemed flat.

Others seem to share my opinion. The critical response to the new FOiS has been mostly positive, other than the familiar debate over the faux-aged lume, which some find excessive but I personally don’t mind. In fact, I find the aged lume entirely appropriate for the vintage-inspired design.

The FOiS just works. Although it may look similar to the first-generation FOiS, and of course similar to the vintage CK 2998, the new FOiS is an entirely different watch that is arguably a perfect blend of old and new. It has a new dial, case, crystal and bracelet, plus the latest-generation cal. 3861 that’s a Co-Axial Master Chronometer.

Notably, at US$7,900, the FOiS is slightly less expensive than the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch with the same cal. 3861 movement, making the FOiS arguably the better buy.

The first-generation FOiS with its flat black dial

Blue-grey “soleil”

The new FOiS is a faithful reproduction of the CK2998, the second Speedmaster model after the CK 2915. Produced from 1959 to about 1962, the CK 2998 had many of the features synonymous with vintage Speedmasters, including the “dot over 90” aluminium bezel insert, almost all of which had been recreated in the FOiS.

Like the vintage original, the FOiS case is 39.7 mm in diameter and does without crown guards. It has “straight” lugs, instead of the “lyre” lugs found on subsequent Speedmaster iterations. In fact, the FOiS case is nearly identical to another of Omega’s recent remakes, the Speedmaster 321 “Ed White”.

“Dot over 90” on the aluminium bezel insert

The star of the show is the radially brushed, blue-grey dial that’s paired with a domed sapphire crystal for a vintage vibe. The dial is inspired by rare vintage Speedmaster models with blue-grey dials, which have been nicknamed “soleil” (which is French for “sun”) after the sun ray-brushed finish.

This dial makes the FOiS unique amongst modern Speedmaster models, which are mostly equipped with plain, black stepped dials, with a few exceptions like the Speedmaster Moonwatch with a white lacquered dial. The charm of the dial lies in its changing appearance that varies with the light. It can seem black in many environments, with the blue-grey finish only coming alive under direct lighting.

The dial can be a brighter blue-grey…

Or black under indirect lighting

The dial is easy to like, though the parchment lume is inevitably controversial. Given the dark shade of the lume, it feels like the watch is trying to look very old. But still I find it aesthetically appropriate, given that the timepiece is a vintage re-issue. Surprisingly, the colour of the lume also complements the grey-blue dial.

In fact, all of the colours are complementary: the blue-grey contrasts with the black bezel, while the faux-vintage lume blends in naturally with the dial.

Although the lume is pretend-vintage, the printed markings for the minutes, seconds, and sub-dials, are in bright white. Despite this, the dial doesn’t look busy despite the different colours.

The dial also incorporates enough vintage elements to please the enthusiast. The applied Omega logo at 12 o’clock is a nice touch, and the stepped dial construction, along with the sunken sub-dials, are thoughtful details. The dial construction also adds depth to the dial, in contrast the first-generation FOiS that felt flat.

The hands are all colour-matched according to function: the “alpha” hands for the time are polished, while the hands for the chronograph lacquered white

The importance of the domed sapphire crystal can’t be understated. The crystal mimics the aesthetics of the hesalite crystal on the vintage original, and helps create a genuinely vintage feel as a result.

If I could change anything about the new FOiS, it would probably be the case back. The design of the case back is faithful to that of the vintage CK 2998, with a double-stepped edge and an embossed seahorse logo.

While the closed case back completes the vintage feel of the watch, I would have liked to be able to see the cal. 3861, which is surprisingly well finished for this price point. Granted, the cal. 3861 is still an industrial movement, but in my view it’s dressed up to a degree that justifies a transparent case back.

The cal. 3861 on show in the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch

The FOiS is appropriately delivered with a vintage-inspired flat link bracelet, although various leather straps are an option. I recommend the bracelet. Though not fancy, the bracelet is sturdily constructed and wears comfortably on my 6.6″ wrist.

It has all the practicality of a modern bracelet, but still retains the correct vintage styling. The bracelet design is modelled on the 1960s bracelet of the CK 2998, but clearly modern in construction. The links are substantial and solid, while the clasp is chunky.

A slightly slimmer clasp would have suited the vintage styling better, but the size is partly functional; the micro-adjustment mechanism in the clasp that comes in handy.

Micro adjustment in the clasp

Concluding thoughts

The second-generation Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” is arguably the best vintage remake Omega has produced in the last decade.

The watch faithfully recreates the feel of the vintage “soleil” Speedmaster CK 2998, and the radially brushed blue-grey dial simply pops. But it’s not just about aesthetics: the cal. 3861 is a worthy update to the vintage Moonwatch calibre, although it’s a shame that the solid back hides the movement.

Key facts and price

Omega Speedmaster “First Omega in Space”
Ref. 310.30.40.50.06.001 (bracelet)
Ref. 310.32.40.50.06.001 (black leather strap)
Ref. 310.32.40.50.06.002 (brown leather strap)

Diameter: 39.7 mm
Height: 13.4 mm
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 50 m

Movement: Cal. 3861
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, and chronograph
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hour (3 Hz)
Winding: Manual wind
Power reserve: 50 hours

Strap: Steel bracelet or leather strap

Limited edition: No
Availability: Now at Omega boutiques and retailers
Price: US$7,900 on steel bracelet; US$7,500 on strap

For more, visit omegawatches.com.