As Dry Creek Vineyard celebrates its 53rd harvest, the winery stands as an example of family perseverance and a commitment to quality in a world of winery mergers and acquisitions. Founded in 1972 by David S. Stare, this iconic mid-sized winery has remained steadfastly family-owned, now headed by second-generation leader Kim Stare Wallace.

The Stare family has navigated generational shifts, market changes, and the challenges of maintaining independence, all while producing wines that honor their terroir and family legacy. As many of their contemporaries have succumbed to corporate buyouts, Dry Creek Vineyard’s story is one of adaptation, innovation, and an unwavering dedication to its craft and community.

I recently had the opportunity to speak with Kim, who continued my ongoing trend of engaging with remarkable women making significant contributions to the wine industry through their strength, independence, and decisiveness. She describes herself as the “first borne son that her dad never had.”

The History

The winery was the first new winery built in Dry Creek Valley after Prohibition in 1972 and has been owned by two generations of the same family. The original land was a prune farm that was made up of 55 acres. The valley is about 16 miles long and two miles wide, known for its gravelly, sandy loam soils, the climate is warm by day and cool by night. The area has evolved from primarily prune farms to more than 70 wineries and nearly 9,000 acres of vineyards.

Dry Creek Vineyard’s inspiration from the Loire Valley is rooted in its founder’s experiences and vision. David was significantly influenced by his travels to France, particularly the Loire Valley. A vacation in Burgundy and Bordeaux in the 1970’s ignited his passion for wine and he first considered France to open his winery. He decided instead to follow his passion to California, but the winery is built in a French chateau style.

Kim’s Journey

While Kim was growing up, she worked in the office, cellar and bottling line. Kim told me that early on she really didn’t want to work for the family business and pursued a degree in Fashion Design from San Francisco State University. Fast forward a few years and she was asked by her father to help with tastings with her husband, Don Wallace, who is a partner at Dry Creek and the leader in the winery’s sustainable farming practices. This led to her joining in 1987 as director of marketing where she created the nautical labels for Dry Creek wines, showing the passion that the family had for sailing. Her career included the VP for the winery, and she was named president in 2011.

The Transition

Stepping into the president role and making changes in the wines planted, the growers they work with and scaling back production was a tough sell to her father. “The choices were hard for him. We were going from 30,000 cases at the time of chardonnay to around 7,000 to make the wine we needed to transition from good wines to great wines,” she told me. “We needed to train customers on why origin mattered.”

To balance the family influence, they named a diverse board that would help them make key decisions. For family-owned wineries, this appears to be a trend in making sure the board makes fair decisions that helps them to keep the peace. Tenants that remain include offering high quality wine at reasonable prices. While Napa prices continue to escalate and the quality of these wines remain high, the family is committed to offering balance – in pricing and in the bottle.

Iconic Family Brands

The winery has maintained its family-owned status and focus on quality, adapting to changing market conditions while honoring its heritage. Kim told me that “there aren’t too many mid-sized iconic wineries around anymore.” When we talked about the trend of family wineries selling to corporate conglomerations, she told me that “they’ve made it well known they are not interested in selling.” Kim has two adult children, but time will tell if they have interest in the family business. We talked about the homogenization of the California wine industry and the importance of keeping family brands alive.

She first sensed the “corporatization” of the region when Robert Mondavi Vineyards first sold to Constellation. And since then, it has drastically multiplied. But change must march on. Her father today is now a member of a band where he plays banjo and trombone. The age of the band members range from 75 to 90 years old.

Keeping Things Affordable

There’s been a lot of debate at how much it costs to visit wine country. Kim told me that there is a need to cultivate the next generation and the family has a strong belief in offering quality wines with a great brand that overdelivers. “It’s a reflection of our family and we want to offer approachable wines at a great price point with the best experience, hospitality and from the best region.”

Sustainability

Since her husband helped to write the rules of California sustainability, it is no surprise they became a Certified California Sustainable Vineyard and Winery many years ago. The goal is to make the winery better using a variety of methods not limited to solar, pumice collection, cover crops, water conservation and owl houses. When you pop a Dry Creek cork (which is patented) it tells you about the sense of place and sustainability.

The Wines

We tasted the following line-up of wines:

• 2022 Dry Creek Vineyard Fumé Blanc – bursting with citrus. I tasted that along with peach, grapefruit, melon and lemongrass with a nice minerality. There’s a reason why this is one of their flagship wines.
• 2022 Dry Creek Vineyard Chardonnay – loved the Old-World style of this wine. I tasted notes of apple, pear, and citrus with notes of tropical fruit, vanilla, butterscotch and oak.
• 2021 Dry Creek Vineyard Heritage Vines Zinfandel – lots of blackberry, spice, cedar, mocha and pepper. Well balanced and structured.
• 2021 Dry Creek Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon – the best-priced Cabernet ($35) to come out of this region in a long time. I tasted plum, blackberry, and cranberry with savory notes of bay leaf and white pepper.
• 2021 Dry Creek Vineyard Endeavor – I tasted notes of black currant, cherry, cranberry clove, cardamom, coffee and orange zest. Additional air exposure reveals nuances of cardamom and mocha.

Dry Creek Vineyard’s journey over the past 53 years exemplifies the power of family ownership, innovation, and unwavering commitment to quality in the face of an industry that has become much more corporate and consolidated. Under the leadership of Kim Stare Wallace, the winery has successfully navigated generational transitions and market challenges while staying true to its roots and values. By maintaining its independence, focusing on sustainable practices, and producing high-quality, terroir-driven wines at reasonable prices, Dry Creek Vineyard has not only preserved its family legacy but also set a compelling example for other mid-sized wineries.

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