Editor’s Note: For this edition of The Three Watch Collection for $5,000, we turn to one of our newest contributors, Tommy DeMauro. Tommy has a deep appreciation and knowledge for a particular flavor of affordable vintage. Think ana-digi watches, under the radar and nearly forgotten references from big brands, and pure novelty. Tommy has a great eye and loves digging into the lost classics, and we’ll be bringing you his practical guides to these unusual watches in the coming months. But until then, here’s his 3 for 5k contribution, which ought to give you a sense of what Tommy is all about.
As someone who has firmly cemented themself in the affordable vintage market, the three-watch collection for under $5,000 challenge unlocked newfound territory for me. Only owning watches with an initial cost of roughly $400 or less (before service or repairs if needed), I have no experience with luxury brands or any pieces whose market value exceeds my rather low price point. While the appeal of owning a Rolex, IWC, or Cartier was certainly not lost on me when deciding which watches to choose, I wanted to stick close to my roots and pay my respect to iconic brands often found within the affordable end of the market.
Now, before I even begin to unpack my three choices, let me first explain my thought process here. I typically gravitate towards the obscure and unique because of my love for design and expression––why have what everyone else is having? That being said, yes, I am fully aware all the following pieces are vintage and may not be nearly as dependable or durable as an Oris diver fresh off the production line. However, for this challenge, I attempted to cover as many bases as possible while keeping true to my personal tastes and current collecting habits. Additionally, when calculating the cost of each piece, the fee for a basic service was included in the overall price. Every watchmaker charges a different rate for servicing, but I felt it only fair to include a rough estimate as routine cleaning and oiling is a must for vintage pieces to ensure proper timekeeping and maintain water resistance claims. Servicing and parts also played an important role in deciding what brands to feature within this set of watches. Without careful consideration, my hypothetical 3 for $5K collection could easily turn into a situation similar to when a sweepstakes contestant wins a Lamborghini but cannot afford the insurance or routine maintenance to ever enjoy or drive it. Lastly, because of variabilities in condition and included materials like original boxes or hang tags, all prices are approximations based on currently listed and recently sold examples.
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With the strict three-watch confines in place, I opted to focus on potential uses for each piece in day-to-day life. Functionality, proportions, and overall aesthetics were the most important elements for me when choosing each piece. The following three watches don’t just check off one box each, they can accompany a collector in numerous situations while performing tasks that justify their inclusion within this exclusive collection. With that, I hope you enjoy this rather unique collection I’ve arranged.
1967 Bulova Snorkel “K”~$2,000
There’s a certain allure to possessing a Devil Diver of any sort. The advertised 666 feet dive depth was and still is a successful advertising technique that adds a bit of flair to water resistant watches. There’s no better example or application, in my opinion, than the Snorkel K model. Produced only for one-to-two years in the latter half of the 1960s (if my research is correct), the K is an elusive model within the Devil Diver and Bulova collector community. Very little is known about its design history or production outside of blog posts, advertisements, and Bulova line books, again adding to the mystique surrounding the watch.
Image via Craft & Tailored
The K has such incredible design queues that very few divers before and since then have been able to replicate. It features a light silver burst dial with heavily-lumed indices, a gorgeous thick handset, and a thin black bakelite bezel insert. To me, the proportions are what make this watch a perfect candidate for the 3 for $5K collection. At 36mm, this watch can be worn in the office, for a night on the town, and for most aquatic recreational activities––with a proper service, pressure testing, and new gaskets, of course. There are several models within the Snorkel line that are also fantastic pieces, but with its late mid-century modern aesthetics, functionality, and perfect proportions, the K gets the nod from me.
1969-1970 Seiko 6139-6009 “True Cevert” Chronograph ~$1,200
For followers of my Instagram account, this piece should look familiar. Out of the three watches featured on this list, the 6009 is the only piece I have ever personally handled or owned. Throughout the early 1970s, gone-to-soon French racing driver François Cevert wore a blue 6139 model both while racing and in his free time. Using evidence found in photographs, 6009’s produced between May 1969 through August 1970 are frequently acknowledged as the “True Ceverts.” With 6139A movements, water resist dials, 2-piece sweep hands, and notched cases, these 6009s have become the cream of the crop per se of these blue and Pepsi bezel chronographs. If at all interested in diving down this niche rabbit hole, I suggest you check out DC Vintage Watches’ investigation.
Image via Tommy DeMauro
The 6009 isn’t all history, however. Like the Snorkel K, this chronograph has fantastic proportions for the functions it sports and features lovely design queues. At 41mm, the watch can easily slip underneath a cuff or be worn on a weekend vacation to the beach. Another similarity to the Snorkel is the 6009’s fantastic use of color balance. While the Snorkel will match almost any outfit with its shades of black and silver, the Cevert will easily pair with blue jeans and a t-shirt or a navy-blue suit and tie. The Pepsi bezel complements the red accents of the sweep and small seconds hands as well, providing an extra pop of color which helps deviate from the Snorkel K’s monochrome color scheme. What the Cevert has over its Bulova watch box buddy is its chronograph features. These snappy 6139s, when routinely serviced, can be real workhorses and accurately time anything from cross country races to boiling eggs. Whether it’s the larger case profile, added chronograph abilities, or fascinating history, the 6139-6009 “True Cevert” pairs perfectly alongside the Snorkel K and is my choice for the much-needed vintage Seiko chronograph spot.
1975 Longines Gemini II~$1,500 (with original packaging and service)
Now here’s the true curveball. I knew that somewhere within the three pieces there needed to be a wildcard––something that deviated from the safety of monochrome color schemes or relatively conservative styling found in many smaller watch collections. My fascination with vintage LED watches culminates here with the Longines Gemini II. Beginning production in 1975 and ceasing in 1978, these models featured both LED and LCD screens as a method of viewing the time in daylight and low-light conditions. It also embodies an incredibly dynamic period of watchmaking where companies began realizing the battery-guzzling LED modules that once took the world by storm had become cheap and finicky pieces of quasi-outmoded equipment. From a historical perspective, the G-II marks a turning point in horology that often receives far less attention than it deserves.
Image via Vintage and Prestige
Like its two partners in 3 for $5K crime, the G-II’s history is fascinating but not the only reason it was included in the three-watch collection. From a design viewpoint, these are perfect time capsules of 1970s design. From the integrated bracelet to its unique case shape––and who can forget the charm of vintage LEDs, of course––this model’s distinctive aesthetic features separate itself not only from other 1970s watches, but even other LED timepieces of the same era. Besides its good looks, the G-II is the only battery powered and digital display watch in the collection. While finding a watchmaker who can service this piece may be a difficult feat, having a battery-operated option in the watch box is always a nice fallback for those lazier days where repeatedly turning the crown feels like an insurmountable task. The G-II is also the only watch in this group to be gold tone and may be the only reliable piece to see at night thanks to the lume on the Snorkel and 6139 possibly being past due. Taking these reasons into account, the Gemini II is the funkiest piece of the bunch and easily finds itself as the third watch to complete the 3 for $5K collection.
(PS: quick shoutout to the 1975 Heuer Chronosplit Ref. 100.703; it almost made the list but appears to be far more difficult to find fully functioning and near impossible to service/repair)
How Did I do?
I know this may not be the standard or expected choices, but I do hope I was able to effectively argue my picks so they at least made some sense. The Snorkel K, 6139-6009, and Gemini II all bring a variety of aesthetics and functions to the table while keeping true to my fascination with the uniqueness of watch design. While vintage will certainly not be the path for many when choosing a three-watch collection, I still struggle to find newer timepieces that intrigue me nearly as much. While this may be a strong bias stemming from my formal training within the history field, it’s one I simply cannot ignore if I were to purge my collection down to only three pieces. I invite you to leave your opinions below in the comments and tell me what you think of these rather atypical choices for three watches under $5,000. Oh, and with the remaining $300 or so in funds still in hand, roughly 96 Renata 386 batteries can be purchased in preparation for when the Gemini II drains its two button cell batteries in 4 days (yes, I really did attempt to think of every aspect I could).
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