Once again, Hublot has partnered with their favourite Japanese contemporary artist to make the MP-15 Takashi Murakami Only Watch Sapphire. Created especially for the biennial charity auction, it is the brand’s first-ever central tourbillon and it comes in a polished sapphire crystal case and takes the shape of Murakami’s anime-inspired flower. 

Initial thoughts

The recent collaboration between Hublot and the esteemed Japanese artist, Takashi Murakami, elevates their partnership to a heightened level of intricacy. In contrast to previous editions, where the rainbow gem-set flower was simply contained within the watch, this latest timepiece pushes boundaries by fashioning the entire case out of a floral shaped sapphire crystal. 

Undoubtedly, the central flying tourbillon takes centre stage in the MP-15, boasting an impressive 150-hour power reserve. It’s refreshing to see brands like Hublot using their collaborations to show real horological firepower, moving away from the usual dial or material changes that have been prevalent in the past. Hopefully, this direction will extend to their other watch lineups as well.

The MP-15 carries an estimate of CHF350,000 to CHF400,000 which sits just above what the brand achieved in 2021 at Only Watch. The estimate appears to be justified considering the materials used, especially when compared to the typically high prices achieved by Murakami’s artworks and collaborations.

This watch certainly places artwork above functionality, with the dial at the centre of this watch taking up far less space than the petals surrounding it, not to mention that is it covered by a smiling face making it that little bit harder to read the time. It is easy to imagine the eventual owner of this watch using it more for its aesthetics than to keep track of the time.

Alongside the timepiece, the fortunate winning bidder will also receive a unique ink calligraphy piece by Murakami titled “Time of Rainbow.” The artwork which was done on a used coffee filter paper was drawn from the design of the watch itself. A nice personal touch that will certainly be appreciated by the eventual winner of this piece. 

Sapphire and rainbow gems

Departing from earlier iterations featuring a Classic Fusion-styled case, the watch embraces the artist’s “smiling flower” motif as the structure of its design, extending from the case to the bezel. Crafted entirely from polished sapphire crystal, the watch’s case takes the form of a flower that is held together by titanium screws. It is quite a large watch on the wrist, measuring 42 mm in diameter and 13.4 mm high. The majority of the case is made of 12 petal forms that are surrounded by a steel rim, inside these petals 444 rainbow-hued gemstones have been set. 

The MP-15 showcases the brand’s first central flying tourbillon, personally chosen by Mr. Murakami to represent the philanthropic endeavours of the Only Watch charity. In this design, the cannon pinion and hour wheel were relocated around the tourbillon support, creating a co-axial construction. As a result, the tourbillon gives the impression of being suspended in mid-air, while two hands indicate the hours and minutes beneath its cage. Additionally, the tourbillon is enclosed within a domed sapphire crystal display.

As compared to the previous limited editions that utilised an in-house Unico automatic movement, the MP-15 timepiece is driven by the manually-wound HUB9015 calibre. In addition to its central flying tourbillon, the movement has been re-engineered to deliver an extended power reserve of up to 150 hours, albeit at a lower frequency of 3 Hz.

Key facts and price

Hublot MP-15 Takashi Murakami Only Watch Sapphire
Ref. 915.JX.4802.RT.1198.OWM23 

Diameter: 42 mm
Height: 13.4 mm
Material: Sapphire
Crystal: Sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 30 m

Movement: HUB9015
Functions: Central flying tourbillon, hours, minutes
Winding: Manual
Frequency: 21,600 beats per hours (3 Hz)
Power reserve: 150 hours

Strap: Rubber strap with sapphire and titanium folding clasp

Limited edition: Piece unique
Availability: To be sold at Only Watch on November 5, 2023
Estimate: CHF350,000 – CHF400,000

For more information, visit Onlywatch.com.